(Received by the Exploration Committee on the 1st July 1861)
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Natives, about twenty-five in number, approached the camp, but I considered it advisable not to allow them to come near the tents.
30th December
On several days
during the week were annoyed by number of natives. On Wednesday
they succeeded to steal six camel pack-bags, which we had washed
that morning and spread out on the turf on the water's edge to
dry. The thief, by keeping under shelter of the high bank,
escaped unobserved. Noticing the loss only late in the afternoon
I did not think it advisable to go in pursuit. During the night
of Thursday I, observed two-blacks within a hundred yards of the
camp. but on my shouting to them they ran off. On the 23rd,
finished the stockade, 20 by 18 feet, and put up Mr Burke's tent
within it. In this tent I kept the ammunition and firearms. From
within the stockade we had the other tents and the camels, which
were kept tied up at night, under cover of our guns.
31st December
Observed some
blacks stealing stealthily along the bank of the creek towards
the camp, while one of them directed them from behind a big tree.
I allowed them to come to within twenty paces of the camp, when
suddenly I called out to them, we at the same time firing off our
guns over their heads. They seemed much frightened and hardly
able to run away. Great numbers of blacks camped near us.
6th January 1861
A large number
of natives came to the camp, whose demeanour roused my
suspicions. Got hold of a, young native and shoved him off, when
he fell down. In the afternoon the whole tribe returned, the men
armed, some with spears and some with boomerangs; most of them
had painted their faces and bodies. I met them at a short,
distance from the camp, and marking a circle round it, I gave
them to understand that they would be fired at if they entered
it. On some of them crossing the line I fired off my gun into the
branches of a tree, when they retired, and did not molest us any
more.
24th December (sic)
I should
like to explore the neighborhood a little but cannot safely leave
the camp for longer than three or four hours, one of the men
looking after the camels the greater part of the day, while the
other is away from four to five hours daily to prevent the horses
from straying. I should have mentioned that I had charge of six
camels and twelve horses, two of the camels very scabby. Grass is
getting very dry and scarce near the camp. We are obliged to hang
all our stores on boughs of trees to protect them from the rats,
of which we killed about forty every night for some time.
26th February
I rode up a
conical hill bearing NW by N from the depôt. It is distant
about nine miles and one of a chain of hills running NE and SW.
From the top of this hill I saw another range, distant about
fifteen to twenty miles, much broken and considerably higher than
the one I was on. The country between the two is stony, like that
between the first range and the depôt.
1st March
Natives less
numerous. Looking out anxiously for Mr. Burke's return. One day I
took a ride up the creek which joins Cooper's Creek opposite our
camp coming from ESE, following it up about six miles, and found
bed and banks thickly timbered with myall. The country in that
direction is very stony. From the top of a stony rise I saw a
low range running E and W, distant about fifteen miles. Blacks
passing now and then offering us nets and fish; we made it a rule
never to accept the least thing from them, but made some of them
little presents of left off clothes.
15th March
About twenty-five
natives with their families passed here last night an their way
upthe creek, offering nets and fish. They gave me to understand
that there would be plenty of water in the creek shortly, and
that we might swim on the flat the stockade was on.
1st April
During the first twenty-four
days of March the heat has been greater than might be expected
for the season and especially the nights were intolerably sultry,
a great deal more so than the warmest of January. On the 24th
there was a sudden change, it began to blow hard, the nights
became very cool. On the evening of the 29th we observed
lightning in all quarters, and heard thunder in the north. A
slight shower of rain fell between 8 and 9 o 'clock, p.m., and
another on the following morning, not sufficient however to lay
the dust. The blacks stole a camel pack-saddle from us on the
27th, while I was away from the camp. They carried it about a
mile down the creek, where Patten overtook them and recovered the
saddle, but it was torn to pieces.
1st April
Patten commenced
shoeing the horses, lest he might become incapacitated by
disease, as he felt very unwell.
4th April.
Patten, after shoeing two
horses, was obliged to take to his bed, suffering acute pain, and
was not afterwards able to move about.
15th April
Patten is getting
worse. I and McDonough began to feel alarming symptoms of the
same disease.
18th April
There is no
probability of Mr. Burke returning this way. Patten is in a
deplorable state, and desirous of being removed to the Darling to
obtain medical assistance, and our provisions will soon be
reduced to a quantity insufficient to take us back to the
Darling, if the trip should turn out difficult and tedious. Being
also sure that I and McDonough would not much longer escape
scurvy, I, after most seriously considering all circumstances,
made up my mind to start for the Darling on Sunday next, the
21st. The horses have lately got into the habit of straying;
missed five of them a few days ago and found them about fifteen
miles from the camp. Last Monday we had a welcome rain for the
first time since 8th December (except some slight showers on 24th
and 25th March). The last three days have been, fine and cool,
but now it again looks like rain, although the barometer is very
high - higher, indeed, than it has been during our stay here.
21st April
Left the depôt
at 10 o' clock am, leaving 50 lbs of flour, 50 lbs of oatmeal, 50
lbs of sugar and 30 lbs of rice buried near the stockade, at the
foot of a large tree and marked the word "dig" on the tree. I
took 150 lbs of flour, 75 lbs of sugar, about 70 lbs of oatmeal,
1 bag of rice, 4 lbs of tea, and a small quantity of biscuits.
Taking into consideration that we would be obliged to travel
slowly on account of Patten, and on account of the scarcity of
water which I calculated to have to contend with, and would
probably be on the road to the Darling at least six or seven
weeks, I considered that I could not take less provisions. Patten
was placed on a quiet camel. We travelled very slowly, and halted
at 5 o'clock pm, having made about fourteen miles.
22nd April
Started at 8 o'clock, and reached Camp 63 (Rats' Hole) at 11.30 am finding the frame of a camel pack-saddle stuck in a tree. We had put away the saddle in some bushes when we abandoned the place on account of the rats, but the natives had found it. Halted at Camp 62.
23rd April
Were visited by about seventy
or eighty natives, some of them old acquaintances, Threw away a
bag of camel shoes to lighten the burdens of the two sick camels.
Travelled twenty-eight miles, and halted at Camp 60. Splendid
grass in bed of creek.
24th
April
Filled two pair of water-bags with
water, and started for Bulloo at 12.30 pm, going ESE. Finding a
little water and plenty of good grass, halted at 5 pm. Was
compelled to throw away nine pair of water-bags to be able to
carry water. Finest country in the neighborhood of Cooper's
Creek.
25th April
Started at 8 am,
from eleven o' clock passed over very stony country. Three
o'clock stony range. Halted at 6.15 pm between ranges without
water or grass.
26th April
Having kept a
careful watch over the camels and horses, we were enabled to
start at 6.30 am. Till eleven o' clock, very stony and scrubby
country to pass over. When clear of ranges, followed an ESE.
course, crossing several creeks without water running SW, bank of
creeks thickly timbered with gum. The creeks looked likely to
contain some watery but pushed on without searching for it. At 3
pm came upon sandy, well grassed and thinly timbered country; saw
a variety of birds, as pigeons, crows, etc; halted at a creek,
probably McDonough's Creek. We had to watch our cattle closely
the whole night, as want of water made them inclined to ramble
and they showed no inclination to feed.
27th April
Started at 6.4 am
taking an E by S course, as the appearance of the ranges to the N
and NE led me to believe that I had kept rather too much to the
south. I continued on this course till 9 am, when I got a glimpse
of a high ridge, which I recognised as the western boundary ridge
of the Balloo Plains. Went east till 10 am then E by N, and
arrived at the Bulloo Creek, at Camp 52, at 1.45 pm. When
crossing Mr Burke's old track I noticed fresh tracks of horses
and camels going in different directions, which were not more
than ten, to twelve days old, and I conjectured that the party
left at Menindee had been at Bulloo, or were there still. As I
could not expect to find water down the creek, I followed up our
old track, knowing that there must be water in a large channel,
which we had passed on our way to Cooper's Creek, about five
miles from Camp 51. At 4 pm I reached several small but deep
water holes with plenty of water, and camped there. We had much
trouble to keep the horses from plunging into the water, most of
them having had no fresh water for exactly 100 hours. I decided
upon remaining there the whole of the following day, not only to
refresh the cattle, but also to search for traces of the Darling
party.
28th April.
Went very early in
search of the horses up the creek. At about daylight I got in
sight of them, at the same time observing smoke rising within 300
yards from me, and near the horses. There was not light enough to
see well and I thought I had dropped upon a camp of natives, and
resolved to try to obtain some information from them respecting
the Darling party. After going a few yards further, I saw to my
great surprise a European advancing towards me. It was Mr.
Hodgkinson. He led me to Mr. Wright's camps, and after bringing
our party in with horses and camels, &c., I placed myself and
party under the orders of Mr. Wright.
I have the honor to be, Sir, Your most obedient Servant,
William Brahé
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