Sunday, 20 October 1861
... altered course to 47° reaching at 2.20 or 1½ miles Kadhi Bieri a small lake shallow but with good water encircled by a ring of thick box and poligonum scrub and open at its N.W. end whence its feeder coursed through a thickly grassed and wide flat.

Mr Middleton being some distance in the rear with the camels and no natives being visible though still-burning trees marked their recent presence Mr. McKinlay, Bulingani [an Aboriginal guide from Lake Hope] and myself at once rode to the spot where we hoped to rescue our unfortunate creatures. I have however forgotten that during the day Bulingani had taken an opportunity when we were riding apart to tell both McKinlay and myself that there was but one white fellow and one horse, that the latter had been killed by the former for food and that lastly the white man had been slain by the natives with one of the wooden swords I have described. This tale was repeated with an appearance of profound grief ending with a request that we would go back to Mulindhuroona and shoot the perpetrators of the massacre.

So many and so varied however were the reports we had heard that nothing could be depended upon and travelling up the flat I have stated as running from the NW end of the Lake in 1½ mile we reached a spot where Bulingani pointed out a grave and a heap of ashes as the scene of the white man's death and burial. This grave was far more rudely constructed than those used for the interment of the natives a few boughs being thrown over it as protection from the wild dogs. It was situated on the W side of the flat, close to a box sapling, 30 yards from the camping fire and 300 from some occupied native wurlies. A quantity of fish bones were strewn in the vicinity of the fire place but no marks could be seen upon the ground or trees about.

The afternoon being far advanced and Mr. McKinlay being anxious to ascertain if Middleton had arrived further search was deferred and we returned to the Lake. Finding the camels had not come I took a walk towards some wurlies on the Lake and entering them discovered a bent pannikin without a handle, no mark was on it by which it could be identified. At 5 p.m. the camels arrived and we camped beneath a tree on the margin of the Lake maintaining a strict watch all night. Once or twice a fire sprang up at the southern end of the Lake.

Monday, 21 October 1861 - Kadhi Bieri
At 7.28 a.m. Mr. McKinlay and I started to examine the Lake, discover the origin of the fire seen the previous night and ascertain if any blacks were about for our party being so small it was impossible to divide it and therefore necessary to leave the saddles &c., unprotected while investigating the flat to the North. At the Eastern end of the Lake were several whirlies which we examined without finding anything and a large grave evidently recent to the one up the flat. In the whirlies where I found the pannikin I now found a square canteen one of a kind not usually supplied and similar to those supplied to the Burke Expedition. No marks upon it. During our ride no natives were seen nor could we discover the locality of the fire seen the previous night. On returning to camp, all four started for the flat and upon our arrival commenced the disinterment of the body with a native sword the only instrument at hand. This operation being performed with the utmost care so as not to preclude the possibility of identification. We found a European corpse buried about 6 in. beneath the surface a mound of sand some 2 ft. In height being above.

The face lay downward, the body on its back, the head being dislocated. A flannel undershirt with short sleeves was on the body. The skull still retained a tuft of straight dark hair much decomposed and short. The scull [sic] was also marked with apparent sabre cuts two in number, one over the left eyebrow, another on the right temple inclining towards the ear. Decayed teeth existed in both sides of the lower and right upper jaw. The other teeth were entire and sound. In the lower jaw (one on each side of the four front ones) were two teeth similar to those vulgarly termed buck teeth. Dimensions having been taken of several bones and a piece of the flannel shirt secured, the remains were carefully reinterred and the sapling near marked MK. Oct 21.61. No traces of note book or anything by which the body could be identified were found. The corpse was in a most decomposed state the whole of the flesh being consumed. A soft substance in the socket of the eyes and the cavity of the chest was all that remained save the skeleton.

Who was this? That he was a European is beyond doubt from the conformation of the head, the presence of the two front teeth in the upper jaw, the shirt and the little pains displayed in his interment.

There were four members in the ill-fated party led by Burke from Cooper's Creek. Mr Burke, Mr Wills, King and Gray. I know the body was not that of either Wills or Gray from the texture and color of the tuft of hair which will with other relics be forwarded to Town.

There remains Mr. Burke and King. Both (the latter I know) had seen military service; both had black hair; the former a dark strong beard. No traces of a beard were found in the grave and unless someone can identify the teeth I am of the opinion from the facial angle of the scull and the absence of hair from a beard that the remains are those of King formerly a soldier in the E.I.Co's service and one of the party brought over by Landells with the camels.

Bulingani during all these proceedings had assisted with great reluctance but at their completion he revealed a still further extension to the affair.

Leading us to the bank of the Creek some 200 yds. to the E the traces of a European encampment occupied for some time became visible. Close to an overhanging box tree with broken boughs a quantity of horse dung lay and at the foot of other trees the dung of camels marked where those animals had been tied up and indisputably identified the party as Burke's.

The two large fire places deep in ashes with many fish bones scattered about proved that the camp had been occupied for some time. A piece of a cabbage tree hat, a fragment of a light blue shirt of fine wool, the remains of an Ely cartridge; and a portion of a Nautical Almanac with the date 1858 and seemingly used for wadding led to the most dismal conjectures rapidly hastening to horrid certainties when upon Bulingani informing us the natives had eaten their victims we proceeded to examine the ashes I have spoken of.

Those ashes were partly composed of calcined bone a small portion of which Mr. .McKinlay picked up and retained.

On further examination our attention was directed to two holes dug with a spade and from their shape intended for graves. On the surface of one of these, locks of hair were strewn about and carefully collected by us. The hair thus obtained was of three descriptions, one, light sandy inclining to be golden, the other, dark curly brown, the third, black and straight. The holes were dug up but no remains found except one small foot bone. Bulingani stated the natives had dug up and eaten the bodies. Not a scrap of iron work, note books or anything else was discovered and leaving the spot we returned to our camp at Kadhi Bieri. Mr. Wills' [sic] had light sandy hair inclining to golden, Gray had curling brown hair, the third dark hair must have belonged to King or Burke. At any rate four individuals were accounted for, four was the number of Burke's exploring party at the date of the death of those bodies with camels and one horse On our return to Kadhi Bieri every article we had found was carefully packed up. To Account for the singular fact of so few articles being discovered Bulingani stated that the natives had burnt everything that would burn and carried off the remainder.

Nothing occurred during the night a strict watch being kept on Bulingani who however showed no desire to bolt.

Tuesday, 22 October 1861 - Kadhi Bieri.
We had just saddled the horses this morning, purposing to ride some few miles beyond Burke Swamp, when our attention was attracted by some natives walking from the north towards the wurlies where I had found the pannican and canteen. They were five in number, a man and four lubras, and did not at first perceive our presence on the lake. The flutter of our blankets, which were hanging on the branch of a tree, at length attracted their pursuit, and away they posted in the direction from which they had come. Mr McKinlay, Bulingani, and I, were after them at full gallop in an instant, but Bulingani unaccustomed to such rapid motion, parted with his horse which still continued the pursuit. In about a mile we two riders with our three horses pulled the dark individual, and certainly a more expressive subject of mingled fear and rage could not be found. With hanging jaw to show his fear, distended nostril his surprise, and glaring eye his hate, there he stood covered by my gun, convulsively twitching his waddy as if meditating to hurl it at one or other. Bulingani coming up, however, somewhat assuaged his fears, and ultimatily forced a maniacal laugh from him. With a few shrill cries he let his lubras know no immediate harm was intended, and forth from their place of concealment came these hideous objects of his solicitude. On being questioned as to the whitefellows, he led us to an adjacent sandhill, and without hesitation commenced scratching on a spot from which he brought to view a quantity of burnt horsehair, used for the stuffing of saddles. He was then taken to our camp, fed, and more closely examined. A wound on his knee attracting our attention, he showed how he had been shot, by pointing to my gun, and carried from the spot on another native's back. Besides the wound on his knee, there was another bullet-mark on his chest, re-issuing between the shoulders, and four buckshot still protruding from the centre of his back. He corroborated all Bulingani had said relative to the massacre and its cannibalistic denouement, distinctly stated that four whites were killed, and ultimately departed, leaving his lubras as a hostage, for the purpose of fetching a pistol in the possession of his tribe. This was at 4 p.m. At nightfall he had not returned, the lubras being camped about 60 yardä from us, between the lake and our camp. I forgot to mention that he represented the camels as having gone south, and that his name was Keri Keri. A sketch of him accompanies this diary.

Wednesday, 23 October 1861 - Durane.
About 11 pm. last night a good deal of whispering took place between Bulingani and the lubras, the latter being very anxious to light a fire, but not being allowed to do so. Very shortly afterwards a fire was seen on the summit of a sandhill, some five miles off, and at 3.30 torches could be seen moving between the site of the fire towards the lake.

At 4, or a little after, a dark mass, feebly shown by fire-sticks, was within half a mile of the camp, and quickly a large group of blacks, led by Keri Keri, advanced towards us. When Bulingani, speaking to them, told them to keep back or they would be killed, they burst into frightful yells of 'whitetellow, whitefellow,' and boldly ran at us; at the same moment the lubras sprung up and hastened towards them, and in a brief interval we should have been surrounded had not Mr McKinlay given orders to fire, upon which our two rifles and double-barrelled gun came into play. They stood fire with unexampled bold ness. Keri Keri standing his ground and encouraging them on. At length they turned and sought the refuge of the water: and having breakfasted und packed up, at 10.30 we left Kadhi Bieri on a course of 197°; at 11.15, or two miles, reaching a flooded flat, dry and covered with luxuriant clover. Thence on 202° for five miles,stopping twenty minutes in consequence of Crishna objecting to surmount the heavy sandhills crossed. At 12-30 crossed NW end of another dry grassy lake, and at 1.20 made a large creek, with the first gums on it that we had seen for a long time. Following its bed to N. and W. at two miles we reached a waterhole termed Weride marara.

At 2.15 left, and at 12 miles, or 6 pm, on a course of 215° 30' over a flat bordering the creek, reached a chain of waterholes, containing abundance of shallow and not very good water. The creek here was 50 or 60 yards broad, with steep banks excessively scrubby. Durane is the native name, and Day's Creek its European appellation.

Thursday, 24 October 1861 - Cudgeecudgena.
At 7.15 left Duraue, or Day's Creek, travelling on 235° or thereabouts, over splendid dry lakes, covered with grass, and divided by sand ridges of insignificant elevation.

At 10 am. to 11, or 14 miles, reached Antiwarcoroo, flowing from 320°, and forming a chain of shallow holes.

At 1 p.m. left Antiwarcoroo on same course, crossing at 2 a large dry lake, abounding in clover and grass, and surrounded by a box forest, beneath which thousands of pigeons sought food and shelter.

At 2.15 topped the sandhills encircling Lake, Buchanan.

At 3, or nine miles, reached the lake, and shortly afterwards camped, finding the party perfectly safe. The camels were some little later in their arrival, as they could not keep pace with the horses. The country over which our return journey was made, was as different as possible from that by which we went to Kadhi Bieri. In truth, Bulingani sought to dissuade us from going, by the dreary nature of the ground to be traversed, and in coming back chose the quickest and easiest route.

Friday, 25 October - Saturday, 30 November 1861.
The period embraced between the dates above given was employed in spelling at Cudyee Cudyena, and in proceeding from that lake to Mr Jacob's station of Petemaia for a fresh supply of rations. The particulars of this duty were embodied in the despatch which I had the honor to address to the Commissioner of Crown Lands from Blanchewater.

Nothing of the slightest importance occurred during the journey to the settled districts or the return therefrom to the main camp at Cudyee Cudyeena. By Mr McKinlay's directions I engaged a man named William Maitland to perform the duties of cook; and also two natives - both of whom, however, deserted upon our arrival on the return at Mannwulkaninni, the station of Mr Stuckey, and lying upon the southern margin of Lake Torrens.

[December 1861-January 1862]
Subsequent to the date of November 30, the party were encamped in the lake district visiting the various waters laid down in the charts, which I delivered over to Mr McKinlay prior to my resignation of the appointment held by me. The features of these lakes so nearly resembled the country I have already described an the former portion of my diary, that further comment upon them would be tedious, and having failed in two successive attempts to penetrate to the north and east of the Wattawiddido and Appocaidradille Lakes, the party were compelled in January to take up their quarters upon Appanbara, or Hayward's Creek, the feeder of the Wattawiddido. Here they remained for several weeks, impatiently awaiting the advent of rain. The unfortunate loss of a portion of my diary has prevented me from supplying the connected narrative it embodied; but from February 6 to the date of my resignation the proceedings of the party will be given in their entirety.

Wednesday, 5 February 1862 - Appanbara.
The unhealthy nature of this camp continues to manifest itself daily, nearly the whole of the party suffering from continued and excessive vomiting. Whether this vomiting, and the lassitude it produces, are caused by the forced inactivity to which we are subjected, by exposure to the intense heat prevailing, by the myriads of flies which swarm upon our food, or by the obnoxious effects of a portion of damaged flour in our stores, cannot be ascertained; but probably all these causes, conjoined with the miasma perpetually arising from the rapidly evaporating waters or Lake Wattawiddido, exert their influence in the matter, and combine to keep the party in a most depressed condition of health.

Friday, 7 February 1862.
At 7 am, started with Middleton to ascertain the state of the waters between Appanbara and Goonaidranninni, reaching at 9 am. Caunbergannannee or Christmas Lake, and finding some eight or nine old men with their lubras and children camped there. The large number of natives at this lake upon our first visit had vacated it in consequence of tLennOtnessof the lake water for use, the sun having created so great an evaporation that the lake was reduced to one-third of its former size, and the portion left nauseous from the bitter salts with which it was impregnated. The natives upon it at this date derived their water supplied from small wells sunk in the feeder of the lake. A most luxuriant crop of a species of pea covered the ground formerly usurped by the water. Guonguille, our guide, was very anxious to remain with his friends here, and upon being denied permission to do so, became sulky, and pretending he did not know the way to Goonaidranninni, led us over several miles of grassy flats and box-fringed water courses. At length, I recognised a small flat called Titaupa, which I had previously visited with Mr McKinlay, and knowing that Guonguille was only waiting till dark to effect his escape, I took the direction out of his hands, and shortly after sunset reached Goonaidranninni, which was brilliantly illuminated with the fires of many hundred natives, driven thither by the scarcity of water in the surrounding district. I camped equidistant from two fires, and had hardly reached the spot before Eenmille, Dilbille, and other natives well known to the party came up, assisting most willingly in fetching firewood, water to wash the backs of the horses &c. Though there were several hundred natives round this lake, not more than five of those personally unknown to as came near, and even they left directly they were told to do so. The night passed without any disturbance, Middleton and myself dividing it into two watches - Eenmille, Gounguille, and their friends sleeping at our fire as if to assure us of their goodwill.

Saturday, 8 February 1862.
At dawn on the 8th I tested the depth of water, and found it had very slightly receded since our first visit. The quality was also still excellent, and I am of opinion that Goonaidranninni is one of the few permanent waters in the district. Shortly afterwards we left, and, calling at Moolindhuroona - which was, if possible, worse than Caunbergannanne - reached the main camp at Appanbara at 4.33 the same day. During the day a slight shower fell, followed at night by heavier rain, accompanied by thunder and lightning.

Sunday, 9 February 1862.
Rain for about an hour at 9 am, filling the claypans on the slopes of the adjacent sandhills and rendering the loamy flats on the banks of the creek very soft. The natives have already broken up their camp at Appanbara, and started for the sandhills to hunt the small marsupials with which they abound.

Monday, 10 February 1862.
Broke camp at Appanbara, having first marked its site on a tree with MK (conjoined), and the date of our stay. Started on 270° for four miles, reaching a point a little above the junction of Alfred Creek with Lake Watigaume, country intervening, consisting of sandhills and barren flats; thence on 275° for four and a quarter miles, and then on 306° for nine and a quarter miles, passing through Walmacudillina, a small dry salt lake, surrounded by low samphire-covered sandrises, situated six miles from the point where we first took a course of 306°; thence on 326° towards a flat seemingly covered with stones, and from that cause likely to have retained abundance of surface water; in two miles passing over miserable flats and sandhills, emerging fairly upon the Stony Desert; thence on 310° for four and a half miles all over stony ground, and taken together a distance of 24 miles. Except where the soil was unusually absorbent, the ground was well supplied with water in puddles, and the sandhills already covered with the fresh tracks of natives. Horses and camels, as usual, reached camp some hours previous to the dray, and finding that there was little probability of its arrival that evening, the stores were broached, and an extempore supper provided from some coarse flour fortunately at hand. The feed for camels and horses was wretched in the extreme, consisting only of the sparse tufts of grass growing between the interstices of of the stones.

Tuesday, 11 February 1862.
At 6 am. the dray hove in sight, having been delayed by the inability of the bullocks to travel so long a stage. Brindle, an old and very fat one, broke down, and several of the others could hardly move, the stony ground being unsuitable for them after their long spell on the soft ground of the lakes. Shortly after the dray came up the journey recommenced, the route lying for nine miles on 310°, over a stony plain chequered by innumerable small sheets of water, which beneath the rays of a fervid sun glistened like silver plates. We camped after this short stage upon the west side of a lofty sandhill, that afforded a considerable supply of coarse herbage and at its base abundance of water. Scarcely had the packs been removed from the cattle ere heavy clouds appeared in the west, and thunderstorms could be seen falling in the same direction. Brindle had been brought over this short stage with difficulty, frequently lying down, and upon his arrival at camp refused to feed. Two attempts at bleeding him were unsuccessful from the want of a fleamy and the thickness of his side. To the west could be seen a fire, most probably at Koonterie, a reported permanent water lying between Goonaidrauninni and Paubeeri. During the day and succeeding night several storms fell in the vicinity, removing all apprehension as to deficiency of water, but causing much discomfort as the tents were not pitched.

Wednesday, 12 February 1862.
Everything being wet a little delay ensued, but at a tolerably early hour we were again en route, on 309° for a sandhill looming in the distance, reaching it at 6¾ miles thence in 309½° for 17 miles, total 24¼ miles. At 3¾ miles from the sandhill thus alluded to we struck a flooded flat intersected by innumerable creeks, which at 11¾ miles led into the main channel, upon which at a spot called Dargreto the camp was established. During this day's march we crossed the tracks of three or four horses; from the course they ran, apparently made by Captain Sturt during one of his efforts to penetrate the Stony Desert.

Thursday, 13 February 1862.
The dray did not reach the camp yesterday, so at daylight Mr McKinlay and myself rode round the eastern bank of the main creek for the purpose of selecting the easiest route; Bell at the same time being sent on the track to stop the bullock-driver. Upon reaching the track, however, we found that the teams had already passed the spot, and in fact, Palmer arrived in camp before we did, despite an upset caused by the precipitous banks of one of the watercourses. It was astonishing how he contrived to get along so well as he did considering the length of the stages, the deficiency of feed, and the fearful fissures in the sun-cracked ground over which the route lay. The creek upon which the camp is now pitched is like a huge rent in the desolate plain it traverses, marked like its smaller prototypes by lines of straggling box and scrub. Its width is from 70 to 100 yards, with a depth of 40 feet, while neither in its bed nor upon its banks was there at this period any feed worth notice. The camels and bullocks, however, found a good substitute for grass in a species of fern, which, rising to a height of 7 to 9 feet, covered all the moister portions of the bed, while the horses eked out a miserable subsistence upon the straggling tufts of grass and tops of the polygonum bushes. About half a mile NW of the camp a large creek called Panbera joins Durgreto from the SW. There are pits in both the lakes, being doubtless the Eyre's Creek of Sturt.

Friday, 14 February 1862.
Started at about 7, and crossed Panbera Creek at half a mile, thence over flooded flats without vegetation to Toomudegone a fine waterhole about 15½ miles from yesterday's camp. Two miles and a half back we passed the bones of the only horse which Burke took with him from Cooper's Creek, the animal having evidently been killed at one of that gentleman's camps. A saddle, without stirrups or stuffing lay close to the remains of the horse. Bearings from this camp from a sandhill half a mile from ditto, on 79° 30' - Panbera 170° to extremity of creek 341°, Koonterie 170°, Goonaidranninni 159°. During this day's march Meggie and Bright, two of our best bullocks, knocked up, though the latter, ultimately straggled into camp. Course throughout the day 356° 30’; skirting the west side of creek; Emille ran away during the night.

Saturday, 15 February 1862.
Middleton, Palmer, and Bell were sent this morning to bring in Muggie, if alive, and having reached camp with him, packing commenced, after which we resumed our journey along the west bank of the creek, greatly to the disgust of Guoorgnilla, who was evidently in despair at Emmille’s desertion. Travelling some five miles over a flooded plain intersected by innumerable creeks of a waterless character. Mr McKinlay and myself; with Guoorgnilla, rode to the summit of a sandhill, flanking the desolate flat which boardered the creek. Guoorgnilla after glancing in every direction without seeing the smoke of a single native fire, was so appalled at the dreary nature of the scene, that he burst into tears and refused to accompany us further. Course during day 356° 30’. Mr McKinlay suffered very severely from diarrhoea, aggravated perhaps by the anxieties inseparable from his position. Killed and jerked three sheep;

Sunday, 16 February 1862.
Spelled and jerked the sheep.

Monday, 17 February 1862.
Abandoned the cart, drawing it to the sandhills upon west bank of the creek. The rotten nature of the country, the excessive heat, and the many delays it has caused, combine to render this course imperative, though it will compel us to do without many comforts we have hitherto by its aid enjoyed. Daring the afternoon a heavy thunderstorm broke S from SW; rain fell at intervals throughout the first part of the night.

Tuesday, 18 February 1862.
Packing this morning was a most tedious operation, the horses, camels, and bullocks, having all to carry an increased load. Added to this, the roaming of the horses in a vain search after better feed prevents them from being got in early, and makes a late start every morning. The bullocks under Palmer's superintendence were initiated in the mysteries of packing; Rowdy and Brindle, the two first taken in hand being wonderfully quiet. The camel loads were not only cumbersome, but from the wretched saddles supplied continually productive of sore backs. Left camp on 340° for 14½ miles, thence on 38° for 2¾ miles to camp at a little puddle formed by the recent rains. Little or no feed.  

Wednesday, 19 February 1862.
Mr McKinlay still unwell. As there was apparently little prospect of an improvement in the country, Middleton and I started this morning to search its upward course and ascertain whether the route north was still practicable. We were fortunately successful in this object, finding an abundance of water 9 miles from camp. Lighting a fire to guide Mr McKinlay and party to the spot Middleton returned while I went some 15 miles farther, passing abundance or holes filled by the recent storms, but not one of which could be depended upon for more than four or five days. At 15 miles from camp the creek changed from a deep sandy channel to a straggling wide torrent, coursing over immense boulders of volcanic stones. Ascending its banks. I found to the north and west an undulating extent of stony country, precisely similar to and doubtless forming a portion of the desert. Peculiar conical bills of stone flanked this scene, two of which distant some 10 miles, bore 100° and 168° respectively. Having ascertained that the creek contained an abundant though temporary supply of water, I returned to the party, which had moved about 7 miles higher up the creek in a general course of 355°.

Thursday, 20 February 1862.
Spelled. Middleton being seized with diarrhoea.

Friday, 21 February 1862.
Weather fearfully oppressive. Employed making pack-saddles for bullocks.

Saturday, 22 February 1862.
Quite a change in the temperature, the wind blowing fresh and cool from the SE. Ascended a sandhill on east side of creek, a quarter of mile from camp, and took following bearings. Course to be searched 290°, tending to point of distant sandridge dipping NE. Detached table-topped hill 387°. Started with Bell to examine the country north and west. Travelled 4 miles in 290°; then on 304° for 3½ miles; thence on 34° for 9½ miles, and on 112° for 6 miles further to camp, passing alternately over sandy and stony ground, with sandridges intersecting it at intervals.

Sunday, 23 February 1862.
Travelled easterly, making the main creek in which the party were camped at 6 miles; thence followed its course through a mud plain, perfectly flat and destitute of all herbage, save a few stunted subsole. Upon this plain, at irregular intervals, stone hills cropped out, lending a most forbidding aspect to the scene. Daring our progress down the creek, upon our return to camp, saw two natives, but they were too timid to enter into communication; reached camp, finding that Wyld, who had been sent back for the parallel ruler left behind inadvertently, had just returned unsuccessful.