![]()
Saturday, 26th January. Pamamoroo, Darling River, New South Wales
Packing stores until 11 am., when the camels were sent on under
charge of Dr. Beckler, with instructions to camp on the west side of Pamamoroo
Lake. Owing to the unruly dispositions of the horses recently purchased,
it was one o'clock before Smith accompanied by the native boy Dick (who
had been persuaded to venture again in the interior), started with four
of the horses, followed at 2 p.m., by Mr. Hodgkinson and Stone with five,
and 3 p.m., by Mr. Becker and myself with the remaining four horses. The
afternoon was occupied in packing and unpacking, nearly every horse throwing
off his load, and the party becoming separated by the trouble thus caused.
Smith was unable to find Dr. Beckler's halting place, and camped about a
mile and a-half to the east of it. Two horses broke loose, and went away
with their packs into the thick polygonum of the lake where they remained
till next day. Distance, five miles ; weather very hot, with occasional
light breezes. Country occupied by Mr. McGregor.
Sunday, 27th January. Pamamoroo Lake.
Started at dawn to look for the two missing horses. Took Dick with
me, and found one some eight miles away at a place called Tandower Swamp.
Returned with it to camp, sending Dick after the other horse, which he recovered
in the afternoon, and brought into camp. In accordance with my instructions
Dr. Beckler had moved the camp two miles further on the western border of
the swamp. During the day Smith came up and reported his horses all safe.
Resolved upon issuing the following weekly scale of rations per man:- Flour
7lb, meat 7lb, salt or dried; sugar, half lb.; tea, 3oz.; with preserved
vegetables, rice, &c., at discretion. Thermometer at two p.m., 104 degrees.
Monday, 28th January. Pamamoroo Lake.
In
consequence of the intense heat and the certainty of a small
allowance of water for three or four days, I decided upon
travelling at night, and instructed the party to prepare for a
move a little before sundown. After breakfast Dick, the native,
who had shown on several occasions a disposition to slip away
borrowed a clean shirt and then bolted. His unwillingness to
accompany the party arose from his fear of the natives, and was
to be regretted, as his absence deprived us of our only
interpreter. At 10 a.m. the thermometer stood at 104 degrees in
the shade, and at 2 p.m. had risen to 112 degrees. At a quarter
to six o'clock commenced packing, and started at 9 p.m., with the
rise of the full moon. The horses went first and were followed by
the camels, both keeping Mr. Burke's track, which was well marked
from the recent trip of Dr. Beckler to Duroodo. Continued
travelling all night, the men walking and greatly fatigued.
Tuesday, 29th January.
Coorkerega.
At 7 a.m., the horses arrived at the base
of a rocky range, twenty-five miles N.W. of the Darling, and
camped in a glen close to the main track. A large cave, adorned
with native drawings, and covered with the marks of various
visitors, furnished an acceptable shelter from the scorching heat
; and at 9 a.m. the whole party were recruited by the arrival of
Dr. Beckler with the camels. Water being very scarce, owing to
the evaporation from our leathern water-bags, Hodgkinson and
Smith set to work cleaning out a well about 100 yards from the
mouth of the cave. In a short time water commenced to percolate
through the sand, and ultimately several buckets of a rather
nauseous though desirable fluid were obtained. I then had another
well sank higher up the glen and fortunately succeeded in
procuring a bucket of water for nine of our horses, together with
a sufficient supply for personal use. About 6 p.m. a cool breeze
sprang up, but the horses suffered greatly from want of water,
huddling round the well, and refusing to feed until near sunset,
when they scrambled up the rocks and travelled along the crest of
the range. Though there is no permanent water at Coorkerega, and
in fact none nearer than the Darling, except at rare intervals,
the worn out cavities of the rocks furnish shelter to numerous
marsupial animals, more particularly to a species of rock
wallaby, termed wanguroo by the natives, and to the best of my
belief not found southward of the Darling. I should however, be
infringing on the province of the naturalist were I to furnish a
detailed description of this interesting animal ; but I may state
that I called Mr. Becker's attention to several which were shot
by Mr. Hodgkinson during the progress of his party.
Wednesday, 30th
January.
On searching for the horses
at dawn, it was found they had strayed considerably. Stone and
Hodgkinson started in quest of them. Dr. Beckler, Belooch, and
the cook packed the camels and had just completed their task when
Hodgkinson returned with one horse, and stated that he had
followed the tracks of four until he caught one ; the others
which were not in sight heading straight for the Darling. Giving
instructions to Dr. Beckler to move on with the camels to Bilpa,
the next stage, I saddled the horse thus opportunely brought in
and started after the others. It was dark ere they were recovered
; but. I decided upon moving, and started as soon as possible,
camping within three miles of Bilpa, at which spot two water-bags
had been deposited previous to our leaving the Darling. Dr.
Beckler camped at Bilpa, and reported to me that a thunderstorm,
accompanied by rain, had broken to the north of his course at 1
p.m., and a few drops had fallen at Bilpa. Distance from
Coorkerega to Bilpa, twelve miles.
Thursday, 31st January.
Bilpa.
Started at dawn and reached Bilpa with the
horses at 6 a.m. Found the camels packed and just about to start.
Kept Hodgkinson to assist in watering the horses ; and told Dr.
Beckler to move on to Badurga, eighteen miles in front. The water
remaining in the two pair of water-bags sent here from the
Darling, filled about fifteen buckets of seven quarts each, but
was nauseous to the taste, being tainted by the smell from the
camel tarpaulings with which it was covered. We were only too
glad however to drink it, and to have the opportunity of giving
each horse about two gallons. As there were two other pairs of
bags at Badurga, I decided upon losing no time in going there,
and immediately the horses were watered started fur that spot,
keeping Mr. Burke's track, and travelling over eighteen miles of
uninteresting and arid sandhills. At 5 p.m. I rejoined Dr.
Beckler, and heard with regret that two of the four bags cached
near the camp were quite empty on his arrival, and that the other
two only contained five buckets. The horses were suffering much
from want of water, being accustomed to a well-watered country,
and it was evident that unless speedily relieved they would
perish at the outset of the journey. Under these circumstances I
resolved upon sending to Motanie Ranges for water, Mr. Burke's
track leading to them, and the distance to the first water not
exceeding twenty miles. Mr. Hodgkinson and Belooch accordingly
started in the morning with the ten camels and five pairs of
water-bags. At 1 a.m. they reached the Motanie Range, tied up the
camels, and worked all night at filling the bags from a small
rocky basin situated in a gloomy ravine. During their absence Mr.
Becker discovered a plant of Mr. Haverfield's containing a jar of
water, but I did not make use of it, as the quantity was too
small to be of much service, and I thought it likely Mr.
Haverfield might suffer inconvenience and disappointment, as he
was still out in the back country.
Friday, 1st February
Upon
inspecting the horses this morning, I found them so knocked up
from thirst that a few hours further suffering would inevitably
cause the loss of several. I therefore thought it advisable to
push on for the Motanie Ranges, leaving the packs, saddles,
&c., behind. I was the more resolved to pursue this course,
as Hodgkinson and Belooch were unarmed, and I thought it possible
they might have fallen in with natives at the water, and been
prevented from obtaining a supply. Shortly after dawn I started
with Stone, driving the horses. To my great satisfaction I met
Hodgkinson and Belooch with a supply of water, ten miles from
Badurga. I immediately gave the horses a bucket of water each,
which enabled them to go on to Motanie, where we arrived in the
course of the afternoon, and camped in a valley covered with
kangaroo grass, leading to a rocky basin containing an abundance
of beautifully clear water.
Saturday, 2nd February, to Thursday, 7th
February. Motanie Range.
During the period
intervening between Saturday morning and Thursday, the 7th, the
party was encamped in the Motanie Range, Dr. Beckler bringing up
the camels with their loads, and Smith and Hodgkinson again
returning to Badurga with six of the camels for the purpose of
fetching up the horse packs, saddles, and bridles. As this
country has doubtless been described to you by Mr. Burke as far
as Torowotto (or Duroodo) Swamp, I do not think it necessary to
state more than that it abounds in fine pasturage, and consists
of a valley some twenty miles in length, flanked on its eastern
and western sides by ranges of lofty hills, formed of rock, and
intersected by picturesque gorges, in many cases forming at their
heads fine pools of clear water. Though we saw the country under
a very different aspect from that it presented at the period of
Mr. Burke's transit, it appeared even at the time we passed
through it still a fine and verdant tract. On Wednesday I moved
the camp to another gorge about eight miles north. On Thursday
morning we left Motanie Range, and shortly before sundown reached
Nuntherunge Creek, eighteen miles distant from our last camp in
the ranges.
Friday, 8th February. Nuntherunge
Creek.
The morning broke cloudy, with strong gusts of
wind from the south-west. During the night it was piercing cold,
and most of us were glad to augment our wearing apparel.
Nuntherunge is a fine creek, with waterholes two-thirds of a mile
in length, bordered with heavy gum trees, but at this time the
water in them was rather shallow. Near the camp there were some
pine-bearing sandhills, and somewhat peculiar dome-shaped
eminencies. The camels, which had hitherto been tied up at night,
I now turned out in hobbles, and found they gave little more
trouble, if any, than the horses. This creek seemed to be a great
resort for feathered game. Emu tracks were very numerous, and
droves of water-hen ran along the margin. Early in the morning
flocks of Sturt's pigeons came down from the sand-hills to drink,
and flights of parrots enlivened the vicinity of the camp by
their cries. We saw no natives here, but there were a number of
mia-mias close by us, and the fences which they form, in order to
catch water-hen, met the gaze in every bend of the creek. At 6
a.m. we commenced packing, and at 11 a.m. started for the next
creek, Wannaminta. Our course bore a little to the west of north,
and the track was flanked on the right by a bold range called by
the natives Toorltoro, and on the left by undulating sandhills,
beyond which were the ranges east of Flood's Creek, called
Wa-Ya-Boorla. The sandhills were covered with pine and withered
acacia, commonly known as mulgar. Grasses of various descriptions
were abundant, and a small tree, with a light green foliage and
bushy form, lent quite a charm to the otherwise somewhat sombre
character of the vegetation. The journey throughout the day was
very heavy for the camel men, who, in consequence of the heavy
loads on their beasts, were obliged to walk. About three miles
from Wannaminta, two small hills of a singular shape rear
themselves from the flat country by which they are surrounded,
and form a natural landmark, showing the termination of the
plateau to the south. On reaching a spot midway between them, a
fine view, peculiarly Australian, presents itself. To the north a
line of white gum trees mark the course of Wannaminta Creek ;
while at some distance (nine or ten miles) to the N.E. a bold but
short and very remarkable range, called Koorningbirri by the
blacks, Wannaminta Range by Mr. Wills, and I understand Mount
Jamieson by Mr. Haverfield, forms a striking feature in the
scene. During the day two turkeys were seen, but were too wild to
be approached within gunshot. We reached the creek at sundown,
and estimated the distance from Nuntherunge at twenty miles. The
weather throughout the day was cold and cloudy, and at about 2
p.m. a slight shower fell. We reached Yeltawinge Creek at 4 p.m.
I had to send back to our last camp for swag of stores which was
found to have been left behind. Mr. Hodgkinson shot six
water-hen, a teal, and four of Sturt's pigeons.
Sunday, 10th February.
Moved
the camp eight miles to a fine waterhole on the Yeltawinge. A
number of emu were seen here, and several birds shot. Mr.
Hodgkinson here complained of rheumatic pains. During the day the
mirage was observable in every direction, and the range to the
N.E. presented strange changes of outline as we approached
it.
Monday, 11th February.
At
thirty-five minutes past eight the camels left Yeltawinge, but
some delay was occasioned by two of the horses having strayed.
Our course lay over clay plains, on which Mr. Burke's track was
very indistinct, and in some places altogether invisible.
Koorningbirri, of which Mr. Becker made a sketch, now bore S.E.,
and a large, though low, hill faced Yeltawinge, on its western
bank. The vegetation consisted chiefly of cotton bush and
salsolaceous plants, and the absence of timber, except in the
vicinity of the creek, rendered the scene rather uninteresting.
The country around our camp of last night bore traces of
inundation, and the footprints of the natives who had accompanied
either Mr. Burke or Lyons were deep in the clay soil. Shallow
watercourses intersected the wide plain extending around us, and
every hollow was coated with dry sand, glistening and cracked. A
few of Sturt's pigeons, with occasionally a small bird not unlike
a mule canary, were the only animated objects to be seen. The
heat was excessive. The camels were unable to stand in one place
more than a few minutes, lifting their feet from the hot sand in
quick succession. An emu was started, which was feeding near the
track, and so bewildered did the bird appear to be that it kept
walking in front and around us for some time, but eventually made
off. At half-past five we reached Paldromatta Creek, where we
camped for the night, with abundance of shallow water of a creamy
hue. The distance from Yeltawinge to Paldromatta is about
twenty-two miles.
Tuesday, 12th February.
We
left Paldromatta Creek at 9 a.m., running up its southern bank
for about half a mile to Mr. Burke's crossing place, and then
ascending the northern bank, bounded by sandhills presenting the
usual features. About a mile from Paldromatta, the track passes
to the east of a salt lake, which presented a remarkable view,
from the contrast of its snowy white incrustations with the
scenery around. Mount Koorningbirri and other ranges were nearly
out of sight. About 5 p.m. the horses reached Torowotto (or
Duroodo) swamp, and shortly afterwards were joined by the camel
party, camping on the site of Mr. Burke's forty-fifth camp,
though no numerals are marked on the tree bearing his
initials.
Wednesday, 13th
February.
Torowotto Swamp, where I resolved on
spelling for a couple of days, is one of a numerous series of
hollows, receiving the drainage of the surrounding country, and
presents a surface of thick green foliage, intersected by a
thousand little watercourses, and traversed by a main channel
running nearly east and west. Stunted box trees overshadow the
swamp, which is matted with a thick undergrowth of polygonum and
plants particularly agreeable to the camels. Besides this there
is abundance of marsilice, a plant creeping close to the ground,
with leaves not unlike clover, and bearing a seed largely used by
the natives as food. On this seed Lyons and McPherson subsisted
for some time, and the tree under which they camped and pounded
their bread was close by us. Shortly after our arrival at
Torowotto, a tribe of natives came towards us. There were about
seventeen, perfectly unarmed. A tassel tied round the loins of
the men, and a few emu feathers depending from the chin as
ornaments, composed their stock of clothing. They appeared to be
very healthy and in good condition. I gave them two tomahawks and
some broken biscuit, endeavoring to make them comprehend that I
wished two of them to accompany the party. I selected two, and
gave them each a shirt. They were well acquainted with the
various creeks, and named several places in advance, but our
mutual ignorance of each other's language rendered it impossible
to obtain any serviceable information. la the evening they
brought their women to the camp, and freely offered them as
presents in return for the few things we had given them. Most of
the males were circumcised, but the cicatrices in the arms and
breasts peculiar to some tribes were not marked in the Torowotto
natives. The weather during the day was very hot, while
occasionally, without the least intimation of its approach, a
whirlwind would sweep round the packs and scatter the lighter
articles in every direction. These winds moved in segments of
circles, and their directions seemed quite capricious.
Thursday, 14th
February.
Spelled at Torowotto. The day was employed
in mending saddles, cleaning firearms, and looking over the
stores. I discovered that the flour planted by Mr. Burke had been
dug up, the hoops of the cask lying near our camp. The camel rug
under which Lyons and McPherson lay was still suspended from the
tree to which it had been tied, the natives apparently thinking
it too heavy to be useful to them. All day our black visitors
kept walking about pilfering any little articles they could, and
burying them in the sand with their feet.
Friday, 15th February.
Rose
at dawn, filled water-bags, packed and started the horses at 8
a.m. and the camels at 9. Two of the natives accompanied the
horses as guides, but proceeded only a short distance with us. On
leaving Torowotto the tribe gathered together, and the women made
a show of whimpering at our departure. Skirting the N.E. shore of
the swamp for half a mile, we then struck over the sandhills on
our old course to W. of N., passing over precisely similar
country to that bordering the southern shores of the swamp. At
eighteen miles distance from Torowotto the track cut the summit
of a lofty sand ridge, affording a view of the surrounding
country. To the north lay a dreary salt bush plain, diversified
by claypans, and flanked on its eastern and western slopes by
sandhills of small elevation. As there was no sign of water, and
the camel men were fatigued by a long walk through heavy sand, I
camped upon the verge of this plain, and experienced considerable
difficulty in preventing the horses from wandering during the
night back to Torowotto. No water. Weather close and
oppressive.
Saturday, 16th February. Mud Plain
Camp.
Fortunately we had brought from Torowotto a
pair of leather bags filled with water, and all the goat skin
bags. The latter, however, would not retain water at all, and
arrived at the camp nearly empty. Neither camels nor horses would
feed, the former, though closely hobbled, going straight away,
and requiring strict watching to keep them near the camp. At the
period of Mr. Burke's transit this country was completely bogged,
the tracks of his party being deeply imbedded in the claypans
around. At the date of my arrival not a sign of water was
discernible, no birds could be seen save hawks, and the ground
was burrowed in every direction by rats, which seemed to exist
independent of water. As the cattle were suffering from thirst, I
sent Stone back with the horses to Torowotto, and Dr. Beckler,
Mr. Hodgkinson, and Belooch with the camels. They took all the
water-bags with them. Shortly after their departure, I started
with Smith to look for water in a northerly direction. Mr. Becker
and Purcell remained at the camp. At 7 p.m. a peculiarly
brilliant meteor fell towards the N.E.
Sunday, 17th February. Mud Plain
Camp.
Dr. Beckler, Mr. Hodgkinson, Stone, and Belooch
returned to camp with the cattle and a supply of water. I was
absent throughout the day searching the N.W. boundary of the
plain and adjacent ranges for water, and ultimately discovered a
small puddle about twenty miles north of the camp, and about two
miles west of Mr. Burke's track. Weather intensely hot.
Monday, 18th February. Mud Plain
Camp.
During the night the camels and horses were
very trouble some, requiring watching to prevent them straying in
search of water. The water-bags were protected as well as
possible from evaporation, by tarpaulins. At 3 p.m. I returned to
camp with Smith, having travelled at least 140 miles since my
departure on the l6th. I found the country in front of the most
fearful description. Mr. Burke's track runs to the N.N.W., over
some high ranges covered with sharp stones, and emerges upon the
plains upon which we are camped, at a spot where it changes to an
apparently limitless expanse of dried mud. The track is utterly
effaced, and the whole country the picture of desolation, not a
vestige of herbage growing upon the plains. The horses were
watched throughout the night, and the camels tied up. A bucket of
water was given to each quadruped from our water-bags.
Tuesday, 19th February.
At 4
a.m. called all the hands. Saddled and started with the horses at
7 a.m., the camels following half an hour after. A fierce glare,
even at this early hour, rose from the plains, and the sun beat
down overhead with an intense heat. Till one o'clock we traversed
this weary plain of baked mud, skirting the sandhills upon its
western flank, and leaving Mr. Burke's track, which ran more to
the eastward. Not a sign of animal life was discernible, save the
clouds of flies which tormented us throughout the journey. At 1
p.m. two prominent headlands reared themselves to the west ; and
in a bay between them was sufficient feed to warrant me in
camping there, at about one and a half miles distant from the
water I had discovered, I had left the horses to go on in
advance, and returned to the camels in order to lead them to the
spot, previously cautioning those in charge not to let the horses
get to the water. Unfortunately, however, the horses rushed into
the hole in spite of every opposition, and in a very few minutes
rendered it a mass of mud. The camels were tied up during the
night to some bushes, on which they greedily fed, but the horses
remained near the water. At nightfall a thunderstorm gathered in
the western horizon, breaking upon us and passing, unaccompanied
by rain, to the southward. For hours afterwards we were buoyed up
by the hopes of a rainfall, but, beyond a few drops, none fell
near our camp, though it seemed to be raining heavily a short
distance to the southward.
Wednesday, 20th February. Rat
Point.
This morning slight showers fell, from which
we managed to collect three or four quarts of water. At thirty
minutes past one I started with Smith in search of water, taking
about eight quarts from the bags as a supply, and two camels.
Previous to leaving, I inspected the store of water at the camp,
and found it to amount to forty-two quarts for eight camels,
thirteen horses, and six men. The nearest supply known to us was
at Torowotto, thirty-eight miles distant. I placed the water in
Mr. Hodgkinson's charge, with instructions to issue two quarts
daily to each man, and three pints to each horse, and requested
Dr. Beckler to take a pair of water-bags to the mud hole and
scoop up any small quantity he might be able to obtain. I also
instructed Stone if I was not back by 10 a.m. on Friday following
to return to Torowotto with the horses, and Dr. Beckler, Mr.
Hodgkinson, and Belooch with the camels, for a supply of water.
Dr. Beckler succeeded in obtaining four quarts of a very
indifferent fluid from the hole. Thunder continued throughout the
day but no rain fell. A water hen was shot close to the camp in
the afternoon.
Thursday, 21st February. Rat
Point.
The camels remained near the camp all last
night. The first annoyance was experienced from the rats, which
abound throughout this country.
Friday, 22nd February. Rat
Point.
The rats visited the camp in myriads, not only
gnawing through every pack bag, but absolutely biting the men
when at rest. The horses suffering greatly from thirst. Stone
started with them for Torowotto, and at a few minutes past ten I
returned to camp just as Dr. Beckler, Mr. Hodgkinson, and
Belooch were starting with the camels. During my absence I
travelled upwards of a hundred miles, crossing the country
northwards in every direction, without finding a drop of water.
The camels with me suffered greatly from rapid travelling and
thirst, but I thought it best to send them on at once with the
others to Torowotto. Stone and the camel party met with water
from the late rainfall about ten miles from camp and the horses
returned in the evening after drinking as much as they could. Dr.
Beckler also came back with a pair of water-bags containing a
small supply, but Mr. Hodgkinson and Belooch went on as no more
water could he found near the spot.
Saturday, 23rd
February.
Remained in camp throughout the day. At 10
p.m. Mr. Hodgkinson and Belooch returned with a supply of water,
which they had procured from the claypans on the plain, sixteen
miles distant.
Sunday, 24th February. Rat
Point.
Mr. Hodgkinson reporting that a good supply of
water might be stored by sinking a hole in the vicinity of the
claypans from which he obtained the late supply, I instructed him
to proceed thither with Dr. Beckler, and sink a hole for that
purpose. At the same time I sent six of the camels and Stone with
all the horses to spell there, during my absence on a further
attempt to explore northward. Should the claypans dry up
previous to my return, they were to proceed to Torowotto, leaving
Mr. Becker and Purcell at Rat Point in charge of the stores. At
noon I left Eat Point with Smith and Belooch, four camels, and
seven days' rations, resolving to penetrate to the first
permanent water on the line of route, and if possible to reach
Cooper's Creek, which I conjectured to be within a hundred miles.
Dr. Beckler, Mr. Hodgkinson, Stone, and the cattle, remained near
the claypans ; the two former sinking a hole and watching the
camels, and the latter attending to the horses. In order to
preserve the continuation of events at the camp during my
absence, the report of my trip will be given on the date of my
return.
Monday, 25th February.
Dr.
Beckler and Mr. Hodgkinson finished sinking their waterhole this
morning, and collected a considerable supply of water from the
claypans adjacent. Neither camels nor horses strayed from the
vicinity.
Tuesday, 26th February. Rat
Point.
The water in the claypans being exhausted. Dr.
Beckler, Mr. Hodgkinson, and Stone moved with the cattle to
Torowotto, reaching that place at 3 p.m. The natives were still
at the swamp, and very friendly.
Wednesday, 27th February. Rat
Point.
Dr. Beckler, Mr. Hodgkinson, and Stone
remained at Torowotto with the cattle ; Mr. Becker and Purcell at
Rat Point.
Thursday, 28th February. Rat
Point.
Dr. Beckler conveyed a supply of water to Rat
Point, and Mr. Hodgkinson and Stone remained with the cattle at
Torowotto.
Friday, 1st March. Rat
Point.
The party, as before-mentioned, were divided
between Torowotto and Rat Point. A drizzling rain fell through
the night at Torowotto. The natives became rather troublesome,
pilfering little articles.
Saturday, 2nd March Rat
Point.
Dr. Beckler returned to Torowotto with
rations. The party were stationed as before. Mr. Hodgkinson
killed a snake some three feet in length, very thick in
proportion to its length, of a dirty deep brown color, with large
livid irregularly marked blotches. The natives represented it as
highly poisonous, but did not scruple to devour it with great
relish.
Sunday, 3rd March. Rat
Point.
No change in the disposition of the party.
Monday, 4th March. Rat
Point.
Still no change.
Tuesday, 5th March. Rat
Point.
No change. Prepared to return to Rat Point on
the following day.
Wednesday, 6th March. Rat
Point.
Mr. Hodgkinson took a supply of water to Mr.
Becker and Purcell, from Torowotto.
Thursday, 7th March. Rat
Point.
The party stationed at Rat Point and
Torowotto, as before.
Friday, 8th March. Rat
Point.
Mr. Hodgkinson returned to Torowotto with
rations, having previously submitted to Mr. Becker a plan for
following my track, as they were apprehensive, from my lengthened
absence, that some accident had occurred to me. The horses
strayed from Torowotto, but were recovered some ten miles
distant.
Saturday, 9th March. Rat
Point.
No change in the disposition of the party.
Sunday, 10th March. Rat
Point.
Dr. Beckler and Messrs. Hodgkinson and Stone,
having filled six pair of water-bags, started for Rat Point with
the intention of pushing out in search of me with four of the
camels and two men ; but on their arrival at the waterhole,
sixteen miles from Rat Point, found Smith and Belooch, whom, on
my arrival this morning I had sent there with the camels, and
instructions that Stone should return accompanied by Smith to
Torowotto, that Dr. Beckler should at once push on to Rat Point
with water, and that he should be followed on the following day
by Mr. Hodgkinson and Belooch with the camels. The events
occurring during my absence northward are as follow :-On February
24th, the day I started, I went about twelve miles nearly due
north, searching for water in every likely spot, and camping upon
a dry sandy creek. From thence I proceeded twenty miles farther
on the same course, crossing large dry gum creeks running from
all directions, and finally camped on one of them. The third day,
while still seeking water, I saw Mr. Burke's track for the first
time since leaving Rat Point, and camped that evening upon some
sandhills to east of Karriapundi Swamp, whence I could not obtain
water, in consequence of the boggy nature of the ground, and the
presence of a large body of natives. The next morning I struck
for the N.E., over a sandy undulating country, and at 2 p.m.
reached a large watercourse coming from the eastward but
containing no water. Upon the fifth morning, at dawn, I noticed a
fire from a native camp, about half a mile from my own, and
passed the day in searching for water, not once seeing Mr.
Burke's track, which I then conjectured must be upon the
north-western side of the swamp. On the sixth morning I found the
camels greatly exhausted from fatigue and want of water, they
having had but twelve quarts each since leaving Rat Point. I
returned, therefore, to where I had seen the water in the swamp,
and camped, still unable to get a supply. The following (seventh
day) I skirted the swamp, and at noon succeeded in reaching a
place where the water was accessible. On tasting it, it was found
to be excessively brackish, or rather like lime water, since when
thrown on the heated claypans it caused a hissing sound. The
camels drank greedily without any ill effects, but the men and
myself suffered from it very considerably. On the eighth morning
I returned to the place where I had last seen Mr. Burke's track,
and found that he had diverged from his course of N. by W. to
N.E. Our rations were this day all finished, with the exception
of three pounds of oatmeal and a little tea, I was determined,
however, to push on to the next permanent water, in order to be
enabled to bring on the party. I gave orders that each man should
have three spoonfuls of oatmeal per diem. Camped thirty-four
miles from the lime water in Karriapundi Swamp, on a, sandhill.
On the ninth day I made a waterhole about five miles N E. of my
last camp, and saw two bullocks there. Passed on, and
twenty-seven miles further, still crossing undulating sandy
country, reached a fine creek (Poria), and camped six miles on
its north side. On the tenth morning I made a camp of Mr.
Burke's, marked 52, and situated upon a dry arm of Bulloo Creek.
Crossed during the day, twenty-five miles from Poria Creek,
another fine creek (Koorliatto), apparently dry. Saw no water or
natives throughout the day, though signal-fires rose in every
direction, at brief intervals. On the eleventh day I reached
Bulloo, and, after remaining a few minutes, returned to Rat
Point, arriving there on the fifteenth day. We were fortunate
enough to kill a turkey and three pigeons during our return, the
former of which enabled us to get along tolerably well, but the
pigeons were stolen by the rats in the night.
Monday, 11th March.Rat
Point.
The horses and camels strayed during the night
from the water-hole dug upon the plains to Torowotto, and it was
twelve o'clock before the latter reached Rat Point, as they were
not overtaken till they had regained the swamp. The horses were
left in charge of Stone and Smith at Torowotto, with orders to
start thence on Wednesday. The health of the men gave me much
anxiety. Smith, Belooch, and myself suffered from diarrhoea. Mr.
Becker and Stone manifested scorbutic symptoms, and Purcell had
swollen legs and numerous sores. Trusting that a change from the
inaction of Rat Point would benefit them, I gave orders to start
on the following morning.
Tuesday, 12th March.
Upon
uncovering our stores, which we had buried, in order to preserve
them as much as possible from the rats, I was gratified to find
that less damage had been caused than I had had reason to expect.
I thought proper to despatch Dr. Beckler, Mr. Becker, Mr.
Hodgkinson, Purcell, and Belooch, with the camels in advance, so
that the water they carried might enable the horses to reach the
water-hole I had discovered between Karriapundi and Poria Creek,
a distance of 102 miles from Torowotto. After travelling twelve
miles, the camels had to stop, from the bottom of one of the pack
bags falling out. Mr. Becker and myself remained at Rat
Point.
Wednesday, 13th March.
I had
given orders to Dr. Beckler not to tie up the camels at night, in
order that they might have every opportunity to feed
Unfortunately the majority of them took advantage of this liberty
to stray back to Torowotto, and Dr. Beckler and Belooch Had to
return there, a distance of fifty-two miles, for their recovery.
Mr. Hodgkinson and Purcell remained with the saddles, stores, and
water, amounting to twenty buckets. Dr. Beckler, in returning to
Torowotto, took three pairs of water-bags with him, and
previously to his starting a couple of buckets were given to the
camel he rode. Stone and Smith came into Rat Point with the
horses, as instructed, and camped there with Mr Becker and
myself. The weather was so fearfully hot that the horses appeared
knocked up by their journey from Torowotto here.
Thursday, 14th March. Mud
Plains.
I started early in the morning with the
horses, and on reaching the camel camp, at twelve miles'
distance, gave each horse a bucket of water, and took four
buckets for use. Leaving instructions for the camels to push on
as soon as they should arrive from Torowotto, I hastened onwards
with Mr. Becker, Stone, Smith, and the horses, reaching the water
-hole north of the Karriapundi Swamp on the 16th inst., after
experiencing great difficulty, both men and horses being knocked
up ; our supply of four buckets of water from the camel camp
having almost all leaked away.
Friday, 15th March. Mud
Plains.
Mr. Hodgkinson and Purcell remained at the
camel camp with the stores. Dr. Beckler and Belooch were engaged
in getting the camels back from Torowotto.
Saturday, 16th March. Mud.
Plains.
Dr. Beckler and Belooch returned from
Torowotto with the camels, and rejoined Mr. Hodgkinson and
Purcell at the camp.
Sunday, 17th March.
The camel
camp started after me and reached a spot seventeen miles in
advance of their last camp. Fortunately for them a shower fell,
which filled the claypans near their camp, and enabled the camels
to drink to their content. Purcell was reported to me as
suffering greatly from pains in his legs, and rode upon one of
the camels throughout the day. Two of the camels, Gobin and
Rangee, had very bad hump sores, from the ill fitting saddles
supplied them. The horses reached Poria Creek with the party
accompanying me, and one horse died from want of water and
fatigue, though every caution was used in supplying the weaker
ones with a drink.
Monday, 18th March. Karriapundi
Plains
The camels, skirting the N.W. bank of
Karriapundi Swamp. camped about eight miles to the north of it.
Gobin, one of the camels, became very footsore, and his load was
distributed among the other camels. Coppin, or Janglee, one of
the Cremorne camels, was also slightly affected in the same
manner; and the whole of the camels were considerably fatigued
by the heavy work they had lately performed. Shadow, the smallest
of the camels, was by far the best in condition and carried her
heavy load with apparent ease. Another horse died at Poria today
from the effects of his push across the waterless plain south of
it.
Tuesday, 19th March. Mud
Plains, at 3 p.m.
Still among the same uninteresting
salt bush plains. The camels reached the waterhole where the
horses had camped on the 16th inst. Mr. Hodgkinson and Belooch
contrived to preserve sufficient water by digging a hole and
filtering the mud through the large marsh-mallow seeds growing
near the spot. Smith, whom I sent this morning from Poria Creek
with a supply of water, joined the camel party in the afternoon,
but found them tolerably well supplied from the rain that had
fallen south of Karriapundi.
Wednesday, 20th March. Poria
Creek.
The camel party reached Poria Creek this day,
and I found Purcell much worse than when I last saw him at Rat
Point. Poria is a fine creek, abounding in fish, and when very
full throwing its surplus waters towards Karriapundi. Our camp
was situated at its south termination, its course being nearly
north and south. The banks were fringed with stunted bastard box,
and we derived much benefit during our stay there from the
waterfowl shot.
Thursday, 21st March, until Thursday,
26th March. Poria Creek.
During the period included
between the above dates I spelled the party at the creek, hoping
that the men would in some degree regain their health. I regret
to state, however, that I had little reason to congratulate
myself upon the results. Mr. Becker and Purcell became much
worse, and utterly unable to walk about, and Smith and Stone did
not at all improve, though energetically discharging their
respective duties. As I Had found no water in the crossing at the
next creek (Koorliatto), I sent Dr. Beckler, Smith, and Belooch
thither with a supply, directing them to conceal it as well as
possible from the natives.
Friday, 29th March. Poria
Creek.
The rats committed great
ravages during our stay at this creek, and were far bolder than
the majority of domesticated animals in their attacks. Owing to
the necessity of examining every bag it was half-past twelve
before the camels started with Dr. Beckler, Mr. Becker, and
Purcell, who had to be carried upon camels. Mr. Hodgkinson and
Belooch, Smith, Stone, and myself remained at the creek with the
horses. The camel party camped at 4 p.m. on the site of Mr.
Burke's 51st camp. A heavy fall of rain took place during the
night.
Saturday, 30th March. Koorliatto
Creek.
At 9 a.m. the camels started, the rain still
falling, but ceasing in an hour's time. At 3 p.m. they reached
Koorliatto Creek, and at 8 p.m. the horses, which travelled from
Poria, joined them. Stone, who had received a wetting on the
night of the 29th, became much worse, and I had a tent put up for
Mr. Becker and Purcell, who were unable to proceed farther. We
found the creek running, though dry a few days before. Its course
trended from E. to N.W. for seven or eight miles, skirting the
S.W. base of the Bulloo Range, and then turning sharp to the W.
direct for Poria Creek, of which I conjecture it to be a main
feeder. There was much more timber on this creek than on Poria,
and splendid feed for the cattle on the sandhills adjacent.
Sunday, 31st March. Koorliatto
Creek.
Morning broke piercingly cold, with a cloudy
sky and drizzling rain. About 10 a.m. the rain cleared off, but I
did not think it prudent to move with so many sick.
Monday, 1st April. Koorliatto
Creek.
Spelled, as rain fell at intervals throughout
the day. No improvement in the health of the men.
Tuesday, 2nd April. Koorliatto
Creek.
Though the weather cleared up, I was compelled
to remain in camp. Stone being affected with severe rheumatic
pains. In the morning a native made his appearance, and gave us
the names of the surrounding localities. He wore no covering,
save a tassel of native grass round his loins, and pointed out
Bulloo as lying much more to the west than our course lay. After
taking a minute survey of the camp he left.
Wednesday, 3rd April. Koorliatto
Creek.
Seeing plainly that any attempt to move Mr.
Becker and Purcell would retard their prospect of ultimate
recovery, and finding no cause for apprehension from the natives,
I resolved to push forward to Bulloo, which I conjectured from
our northern position would be Cooper's Creek. My anxiety to move
arose from the fact that I feared Mr. Burke's stores must require
replenishment, and that any party left at Cooper's Creek would be
anxiously expecting our arrival. On these considerations I gave
orders to prepare for a start on the following day.
Thursday, 4th April. Bulloo, or Wright's
Creek.
At 9 a.m. the camels started, under charge of
Mr. Hodgkinson and Belooch, Gobin's saddle being left behind, as
her back was getting very sore, and her lameness
incapacitated her from carrying any load. Considerable difficulty
was experienced in crossing the creek, which had been slightly
escarped from the steepness of the banks, but eventually the
camels with their loads were got over without injury. The track
led over the narrow belt of sandhills bordering the north bank of
the creek, and then debouching upon an extensive plain,
intersected with water-courses, and crowded with rat-holes,
pursued a course some few degrees to the E. of N. In places Mr.
Burke's track was hardly perceptible, but no difficulty was found
in regaining it, as it was flanked on the west side by the Bulloo
Range, and on the east side by a line of creek-timber running
with prominent headlands towards it at distances varying from six
to eight miles. Twelve miles from Koorliatto we passed one of
these points where Mr. Burke had pitched his 52nd camp. We found
no water there. Eight miles farther we sighted Bulloo, and
established the camp at the point where we first struck it. The
horses which started after the camels overtook the latter, and
reached camp about half an hour before them. We saw no natives
throughout, the day save two who accompanied us a few miles from
Koorliatto, but signal fires broke out in all directions. The
weather continued fearfully hot.
Friday, 5th April, to Wednesday, 17th
April. Bulloo.
Throughout the period included in the
above mentioned dates Mr. Hodgkinson, Stone, Smith, and Belooch,
remained with me at Bulloo, spelling the camels and occasionally
visiting Koorliatto, to convey supplies to the party there. Dr.
Beckler's patients were gradually sinking, and Stone became much
worse. As the natives were very numerous, and apparently
collecting from the surrounding districts, I cut logs for a rough
stockade, which was subsequently erected. Though there was no
feed near the camp, at four or five miles distance grass and
salsolaceous plants were abundant, so that the cattle rapidly
improved. From the absence of any indication that Mr. Burke had
stopped at this creek, I felt convinced that Cooper's Creek lay
still farther in advance, and made two advances, N.E. and N.W.,
for the purpose of tracing the course of the track. I found
Bulloo watercourse to consist of a large sheet of water,
extending some five miles to the north of our camp, with a
breadth of 100 to 200 yards and a depth in some parts of sixteen
or twenty feet. Fish of a considerable size were caught by the
party ; and at the northern termination of the waterhole, where
the creek branched with insignificant channels, numbers of
ingeniously constructed fishing dams showed that the natives
derived a considerable sustenance from its waters. At the
northern commencement of the small channels, which apparently
connect the larger water basins, but from their intricate courses
are difficult to follow, the plains became extremely stony, and
the track turning rapidly to the west, completely obliterated. On
the two occasions to which I have referred as advancing northerly
I was compelled to turn back from the hostility of the natives,
who, upon my camping, collected in large numbers, making fires
all round me, and trying to entice Smith, who accompanied me, by
means of their women. Bands often visited the camp, signifying
the ground to be theirs, and ordering us to move away. All these
demonstrations, in the present state of my party, gave me much
anxiety, and I felt anxious to obtain additional stores for
recruiting the sick and effectually supplying the advance party.
I instructed Mr. Hodgkinson, therefore, to start for Menindie on
the 18th instant, with Belooch and seven of the camels, to escort
Mr. Becker and Purcell to that township, and having engaged two
men in their places, to return as quickly as possible with
stores. By these means I should do away with the inconvenience of
two camps, afford two of the sick what I considered a chance of
ultimate recovery, and only, by Dr. Beckler's return to the
Bulloo camp, lose one available hand. Moving backwards or
forwards with the whole depôt was impossible with so many
sick, and I thought myself still sufficiently strong to hold an
entrenched position against any attack made by the natives.
Thursday, 18th April.
Bulloo.
This morning I sent Mr. Hodgkinson on his
journey to Menindie, directing him to take charge of Mr. Becker
and Purcell, and to request Dr. Beckler to rejoin me. I had
constructed a cudjowar, or camel palanquin, for the carriage of
the two sick men, and I trusted that the prospect of a return to
the settled districts would lend them energy for the journey. The
natives visited the camp during the day, and pertinaciously hung
round the stores. They were accompanied by a boy, some eight
years of age, singularly impudent in his behaviour. Stone rapidly
got worse, being seized frequently with severe rheumatic pains.
Mr. Hodgkinson, as afterwards reported, reached Koorliatto.
Friday, 19th April.
Bulloo.
On this day Mr. Hodgkinson returned from
Koorliatto, bringing with him a note from Dr. Beckler, in which
that officer so strongly protested against the removal of Mr.
Becker and Purcell to Menindie as to leave me no alternative but
that of countermanding my instructions on that point. I therefore
directed Mr. Hodgkinson to return to Koorliatto and bring Mr.
Becker and Purcell to Bulloo, together with the whole of the
camels, as I resolved not to send to Menindie any of the party
until I could form some more definite opinion regarding the
prospects of the recovery of the sick. Stone being much worse, I
instructed Dr. Beckler to return without any delay, that he might
afford his medical assistance. No natives came near the camp
throughout the day, but the necessity of watching throughout the
night fell very severely on the few in health.
Saturday, 20th April.
Bulloo.
Mr. Hodgkinson left for Koorliatto, reaching
there at 11 a.m., but Dr. Beckler did not start for Bulloo, being
unable to leave Mr. Becker and Purcell with safety.
Sunday, 21st April.
Bulloo.
Throughout last night signal fires were
burning around the camp here, and the natives imitated the howl
of the native dog, apparently for the purpose of ascertaining our
vigilance. Fifty-one rats were killed by means of a trap which I
had made ; but this slaughter, though greatly exceeding the
subsequent nightly average, did not seem to diminish either their
boldness or their numbers. Dr. Beckler arrived at Bulloo at 5
p.m., and Mr. Becker and Purcell were not reported as having
suffered from their removal. Two tents were at once pitched for
their accommodation. Mr. Hodgkinson remained at Koorliatto, as
only two of the camels were found when Dr. Beckler and Belooch
started.
Monday, 22nd April.
Bulloo.
Between 9 and 10 a.m. this morning, eight
natives came to the camp, armed, and upon being told to move off,
two went up, and the other six down the creek, joining
respectively two bands who have crossed the plains west of the
camp, and concealed themselves in the creek timber. In a few
minutes, a large body of them appeared on the bank of the creek,
distant sixty yards from our stores, thronging through the scrub,
and occasionally showing in the open, in parties of seven and
eight. A blackfellow, who went by the appellation of "Shirt,"
from having had that garment presented to him by us, was
particularly active, coming boldly up to the stores, and walking
unconcernedly around them. He then picked up about forty rats,
that were lying dead around, and, dropping a portion of them,
motioned for me to pick them up and carry them for him, merely, I
think, to get my head in an unguarded position. Several other
blacks were meanwhile drawing nearer to us, violently
gesticulating, making signs that they were hungry, and that we
were camped upon their ground. One tall, strapping lubra
accompanied them, and was exceedingly active, bearing a boomerang
with considerable grace, and inciting her companions to attack
us. At this time I had but two able men with me. Dr. Beckler and.
Smith, Belooch having started for Koorliatto to assist Mr.
Hodgkinson in finding the camels and bringing them in. Our
cooking place was close to the creek, for the benefit of shade
and water, and the utensils were round the fire, together with
several clothes which had been washed by the party. Dr. Beckler
reporting to me that he saw natives creeping on their hands and
knees near the fire, I took Smith down with me to clear them
away. It was indeed high time-several of them were fingering
their boomerangs as if impatient for a shy ; and lifting up the
lappels of Purcell's tent, commenced unpacking the medicine
basket, while a third, with an armfull of boomerangs, was
throwing them carelessly upon the ground near his brother
warriors. However, they were not quite resolved upon hostilities,
as when Smith and I pointed our pieces at them they quietly moved
off before us, and retired without any further manifestations of
hostility. Throughout this scene Stone, though dying, behaved
with great intrepidity, raising himself upon his bed and aiming
his revolver at the natives when they approached him. About 2
p.m., just as the blacks moved off, I was called by Stone, who,
grasping me by the hand, said, "I am going." He then spoke a few
words, and repeatedly asked that cold water should be thrown over
him, as he could not breathe. Within ten minutes from the time he
first called me, he turned upon his face and died. At 7 p.m. he
was buried near the camp, by Dr. Beckler and Smith. I have
omitted to state that the blacks took away every portable article
from the fire, throwing away the tea and salt, and taking the
bags. Belooch reached Koorliatto early this morning, and Mr.
Hodgkinson started with him towards Bulloo, but were compelled to
camp eight miles from Koorliatto, owing to the late time at which
they recovered the camels.
Tuesday, 23rd April.
Bullo.
Mr. Hodgkinson and Belooch reached Bulloo with
the camels at 8 a.m. this morning, and immediately they arrived
we unpacked all the stores, and passed the day in mending
rat-holes, and repacking them in the form of a stockade ; two
sides being formed by as many logs sufficiently straight as we
could procure at a reasonable distance. These logs were about
four feet in height above the ground, allowing us to fire easily
over them. The other two sides were not so high, but still a
tolerable protection. Inside the stockade, every available weapon
was placed so as to be handy for immediate use, and some of us
always slept within it. At the same time our fire was brought
within ten yards of it, as we had no more cooking apparatus to
spare. Our watch commenced at 8 p.m., and terminated at 6 a
m.
Wednesday, 24th April.
Bulloo.
The first announcement this morning was that
Purcell had died in the doctor's presence during the night. For
some days past he had been so weak. as to faint after drinking a
little water, and we had long been expecting his decease. I sent
Belooch and Smith to look after the horses which fed between
Bulloo and a tributary creek. About an hour after they started
the natives made their appearance, coming in twos and threes
through the thick scrub on the creek, until about a score had
collected. They were armed with new boomerangs, spears, and
waddies, and were accompanied by the boy previously mentioned,
whose conduct was even more impudent than before. At first the
boy advanced with two powerful fellows, hesitatingly towards the
stockade, while in their rear could be seen a dozen others
attentively watching their proceedings. Mr. Hodgkinson having
brought in the things from the fire, I advanced with him towards
the natives, motioning them to be off. Disregarding my attempts
to clear them off, I caught hold of the boy, and, turning him
round, gave him plainly to understand that he would not he
allowed to remain near the camp. I thought proper to do this as
he was evidently only brought to insult us, and at length he
retired with the others to a short distance. We then entered the
stockade and watched the proceedings of the natives, who were
joined about this time by another party from the S.W. The whole
body then clustered around Stone's grave and became most
insulting in their demeanor. Taking up a dead rat, one of them
made a harangue upon it, and concluded by flinging it
contemptuously at us. Finding we did not notice this, they threw
the earth from Stone's grave in the air, and after carrying logs
as if mocking the erection of the stockade, made signs that we
should all meet the same fate as those dead. I was very unwilling
to fire at them, and allowed them to throw several sticks at us
rather than commence actual hostilities. By noon they had
concluded their demonstrations, and moved quietly off to a camp
which they had established to the north of us. Smith and Belooch
returned at nightfall, having been unable to find the horses.
Shortly afterwards Dr. Beckler and Mr. Hodgkinson commenced
digging Purcell's grave.
Thursday, 25th April.
Bulloo.
At daylight I directed Mr, Hodgkinson to
complete Purcell's grave, and, with Dr. Beckler's assistance, he
was buried by 8 a.m. Immediately after breakfast I started with
Smith for the horses, but had not proceeded two miles before
signal fires rose all around me, and I returned to the camp, so
that the natives should not derive any advantage from my absence.
I should have premised that we had heard a horse-bell in the
morning on the opposite side of Bulloo Creek, and that Mr.
Hodgkinson, who swam over for the purpose, ascertained that six
of the horses were feeding upon the bank. I now resolved upon
crossing them if possible, and Dr. Beckler swam with Mr.
Hodgkinson across the creek at midday, for the purpose of
driving them into the water. This desirable object was
accomplished, after a little delay in getting them to take the
water. The natives did not molest us throughout the day, and in
the afternoon I disposed of the few clothes belonging to the men
lately deceased, as some of us were sadly in want of a fresh
supply.
Friday, 26th April.
Bulloo.
The day passed very quietly, no natives
appearing.
Saturday, 27th April.
Bulloo.
This morning, fortunately, no one went after
the cattle, as the horses were quietly feeding within sight, and
the camels came home with great regularity at sunset, camping
close to the stockade. The stores were all unpacked, and, after
the rat-holes had been mended, replaced in their former position.
About eleven o'clock the cry of "Natives!" started us to our
feet, and every article near the fire was carried into the
stockade with the utmost celerity. On looking out a body of
natives, numbering between forty and fifty, could be seen
advancing towards us from the west, not seeking any cover, but
marching in good order straight across the open plain. On this
occasion I saw plainly that they meant mischief, as they were all
painted, and bore more spears than we had seen on any former
occasion. Most of them were painted with a deep red band, from
the neck down the centre of the chest, crossed by similar bands
at right angles to it. When within a couple of hundred yards,
they quickened their pace into a run, exciting each other with
war cries, and placing their arms in position. "Shirt,"
accompanied by two other leaders, was in the van, and despite all
my motions for them to stop, had approached within a few yards of
us before I gave the order to fire. A few discharges repulsed,
them, but as they collected again some 600 yards off, I fired a
rifle at them and effectually dispersed them. As soon as they
disappeared, we visited Mr. Becker in his tent, and found that he
was quite unconscious of any unusual occurrence. I now resolved
to quit Bulloo immediately, as such a small party was quite unfit
to maintain a long contest against the large tribes around, and
any men would be picked off while necessarily absent in search of
the camels. I instructed Mr. Hodgkinson and Smith to get up the
camels without delay, and all save Coppin and Mutwala, which
could not be found, were brought in, and tied around the
stockade.
Sunday, 28th April.
Bulloo.
At 6 a.m. Dr. Beckler and Belooch started
after the two missing camels, and succeeded in getting them. The
day was passed in preparing for a start on the following
morning repacking the loads, and burning all articles of a
cumbrous and useless description. The cattle were kept near the
camp all day, and appeared inclined to remain near us.
Monday, 29th April.
Bulloo.
The horses were very troublesome during the
night, perpetually trying to steal away, and, though closely
hobbled, more than once attempting to swim the broad creek. About
3 a.m. a bell was heard from the south, and a number of dark
objects, like cattle, could be dimly seen through the darkness.
When daylight broke these objects were recognised as forming part
of the mob of horses taken on by Mr. Burke, and shortly
afterwards Mr. Brahé came up, and reported that he had just
arrived from Cooper's Creek, where Mr. Burke had left him on the
16th of December in charge of a depôt consisting of Patten,
McDonough, Botan, six camels, and twelve horses. Mr. Brahé
had received instructions to remain at Cooper's Creek for three
or four months but had extended that period to eighteen weeks,
and only left when his rations ran short. Previous to leaving he
had made a cache of provisions, sufficient to enable Mr. Burke
and party if competent to retrace their steps, to reach the
Darling. Mr. Brahé had not followed Mr. Burke's track to
Bulloo, but had pursued a direct course, and reached the 52nd
camp of Mr. Burke, eight miles south of my depôt, in about
eighty miles. His horses had been 100 hours without water, but
travelled with much less difficulty than could have been hoped
for. On proceeding to Mr. Brahé's camp I found Patten
suffering from scurvy to an alarming extent, McDonough almost
unable to work, and Botan complaining. Mr. Brahé placed
himself under my orders, and I united the two camps in the course
of the morning. Of the camels brought down by Mr. Brahé I
found three-Beer, Rowa, and Mustana, suffering severely from
scab. The others were in good condition.
Monday, 29th April.
At a
quarter-past five this afternoon Mr. Becker died.
Tuesday, 30th April.
Bulloo.
The night passed quietly, no signs of natives
being near having occurred. Early this morning Mr. Becker was
buried, the stockade pulled down, and the logs used to form, as
far as possible, a protection to the dead. Mr. Becker's clothes,
bedding, tent, &c., being quite unfit for use, were burned,
and his other effects placed in a pack for conveyance to
Melbourne.
Wednesday, 1st May.
Bulloo.
Saddling commenced at 6 a.m., and half-past
10 a.m. we left Bulloo on our return to Menindie. Dr. Beckler,
Mr. Hodgkinson, Mr. Brahé, Botan, and myself were the only
healthy members of the party ; and I did not see the utility of
pushing on the depôt to Cooper's Creek for the purpose of
remaining there the few weeks our stores would last. Our
cavalcade made quite an imposing appearance with its twenty-two
horses and fifteen camels, and the spirits of the whole party
were animated by the prospect of regaining the settled districts.
Several stoppages took place during the day, from the necessity
of altering the seat of our invalids or re-adjusting loads ; and
to show that our departure was not unnoticed by the natives,
fires sprang up at every mile of our progress until we reached
Koorliatto, at a tolerably early hour in the afternoon. Patten
was greatly fatigued by his ride.
Thursday, 2nd May.
Koorliatto.
Spelled at Koorliatto. Got up a tent for
Patten.
Friday, 3rd May.
Koorliatto.
As I was anxious to ascertain before
finally leaving the country whether Mr. Burke had visited the old
depôt at Cooper's Creek between the present date and that on
which he left on his advance northward, or whether the stores
cached there had been disturbed by the natives, I started with
Mr. Brahé and three horses for Cooper's Creek, and reached
the head waters of that creek on Sunday, the 5th, in about
seventy miles, steering about W.N.W. I did not -find any water
throughout that distance, but crossed several fine large gum
creeks, and saw an immense number of native dogs. The remainder
of the party stayed at Koorliatto.
Saturday, 4th May.
Koorliatto.
The party at Koorliatto got up two other
tents for the accommodation of the invalids, and formed a
temporary stockade of camel saddles, etc. A blackfellow visited
them during the day.
Sunday, 5th May.
Koorliatto.
Depôt spelled at Koorliatto.
Monday, 6th May.
Koorliatto.
Depôt spelled at Koorliatto.
McDonough and Smith became much worse, and, with Belooch, were
unfit for any duty whatever.
Tuesday, 7th May.
Koorliatto.
The depôt spelled at Koorliatto.
Wednesday, 8th May.
Koorliatto.
This morning I reached the Cooper's Creek
depôt and found no sign of Mr. Burke having visited the
creek, or the natives having disturbed the stores. I therefore
retraced my steps to the depôt which remained at
Koorliatto.
Thursday, 9th May.
Koorliatto.
The depôt still spelling here.
Simla, one of Mr. Burke's camels, strayed during the day, and
could not be found.
Friday, 10th May.
Koorliatto.
The natives appeared again within sight
of the depôt, and one walked through the camp. Mr.
Brahé and myself still en route for Koorliatto.
Saturday, 11th May.
Koorliatto.
The depôt still spelling at
Koorliatto. Mr. Brahé and myself en route for the
depôt.
Sunday 12th May.
Koorliatto.
Mr. Hodgkinson and Botan engaged in
searching for Simla, and found that he had lain on the previous
night at a place called the Doctor's Camp, a little higher up the
creek. At 6 p.m., a violent thunderstorm broke over the camp,
during which the absent camel voluntarily rejoined the mob. Rain
continued throughout the night.
Monday, 13th May.
Koorliatto.
I returned to the depôt at 8 a.m.
this morning, and found the country between it and Cooper's Creek
to be in general well grassed, but destitute of any permanent
water supply, though, from the presence throughout my course of
numerous wild dogs, pigeons, &c., there must be water
accessible. The country bordering Cooper's Creek is the most
miserable I have ever seen, and I am at a loss to account for the
favorable impression it has made upon the minds of previous
explorers. The creek itself is bordered by stony rises entirely
destitute of herbage, and mud plains so fissured as to render
travelling over them when dry extremely dangerous, and so liable
to inundation that it would be unsafe to camp upon them for any
length of time. The natives who camped in great numbers while Mr.
Brahé's depôt was there, had disappeared at the period
of my visit, and but four were seen by Mr. Brahé and myself.
Our horses had no water from Friday evening until last evening,
when the same thunderstorm that visited the Koorliatto depôt
passed over us.
Tuesday, 14th May.
Koorliatto.
The depôt prepared for a start and
took down the tents, &c.
Wednesday, 15th May.
Koorliatto.
Packed stores, &c., the camels did
not return to camp at night, as was their usual custom, the
females, accompanied by Simla and Bell Sing, staying out.
Thursday, l6th May, to Sunday, 19th May.
Koorliatto.
Looking for the lost camels, which were
eventually recovered on Sunday, the 19th, by Mr, Brahé and
Belooch, with the exception of Bell Sing, which camel they were
unable to find.
Monday, 20th May.
Koorliatto.
Mr. Brahé and Smith engaged in
looking for Bell Sing, but were unable to find him either on this
or Poria. Creek, or in the country lying between. At night they
returned, and all the camels were tied up ready for starting next
morning.
Tuesday, 21st May.
Koorliatto.
Commenced loading at 6, but did not
finish till I p.m., the horses being a considerable distance from
the camp, and the sick requiring great care in their removal.
When about to place Patten on a camel, he stated that he should
not feel safe upon the contrivance rigged for his conveyance ; I
therefore gave orders to unpack, and re-camped immediately,
pitching a tent for his convenience. At nightfall only eight of
our fifteen camels returned to the camp.
Wednesday, 22nd May.
Koorliatto.
During the night the cries of the camels
were heard in the direction of Mr. Burke's camp on this creek,
and at daylight they were discovered to have passed the night
there. Getting them up at twenty minutes past twelve we effected
another start, but had not travelled above half-a-mile before we
were compelled to recamp, McDonough, who rode on horseback,
fainting from weakness. Finding the camels greatly encumbered by
the carriage of the sick, I placed 3 cwt. of their loading upon
the horses, which were but lightly burdened.
Thursday, 23rd May.
Koorliatto.
Having made some change in the
disposition of the carriage of the sick, I started at a quarter
past eleven, and reached a sandhill twelve miles from Koorliatto,
where I camped. During the day the horses were watered at a
claypan filled by the recent rains. The weather, which was very
cold and windy, prevented the camels from feeling any inclination
to drink. A continual watch was set upon them while feeding.
Friday. 24th May. Poria
Creek.
Saddled at dawn. The morning was bitterly cold
and very dark. Got away at a quarter past ten, and after
travelling three miles passed near a large body of natives, who
slunk away on observing us. Our rate of progress with the camels
was very slow. Patten frequently entreating me to stop, as the
motion pained him. At 4 p.m. Poria Creek was sighted, and half a
hour subsequently we camped within a mile of Mr. Burke's 50th
camp, keeping watch all night.
Saturday, 25th May, to 1st June. Poria
Creek.
During the period thus included, the
depôt remained at Poria Creek, partly in the hope of
recruiting the weak, and partly to prepare for the country
between here and Torowotto, as I could not hope for water between
these points, unless rain fell. For a few days I had some hope of
a serviceable fall of rain, as heavy clouds passed to the
southward, and a few drops occasionally fell near the camp. The
camels all became affected with the scab, and one of them died
from its effects. I made several searches after Bell Sing without
avail, and on the 28th Mr. Brahé and Botan started with the
camels fit for service to take on water two days' journey towards
Torowotto, and on the 31st they returned, Mr. Brahé
reporting that he had deposited the water six miles north of
Karriapundi Swamp, which appeared to be quite dry. While
searching for Bell Sing, I several times met a small body of
natives, camped down the creek, and presented them with a
tomahawk in return for some fish which they gave me. Patten
appeared slightly improved by his stay at Poria, and McDonough
and Belooch were decidedly better. Weather exceedingly cold.
Sunday, 2nd June. Karriapundi
Plain.
At 4 a.m. all hands were called, and at nine
o'clock we started for our next water dependence, Torowotto, a
hundred and eighteen miles distant. Smith and McDonough, who were
much better, rode on horseback. Botan conducted the camels, and
Dr. Beckler and Mr Hodgkinson escorted Patten and Belooch, who
were carried by Jambel. After great and frequent delays, caused
by the necessity of adjusting pillows, &c., for Patten, the
camp was pitched fifteen miles from Poria Creek. The camels were
watched while feeding till 9 p.m., and then tied up.
Monday, 3rd June.
Karriapundi.
At 2 am. the camels were fed and
watched, and at 8 a start effected. Patten, who fancied he could
ride Simla with greater ease, being placed upon that animal, I
started with the horses some time after the camels, overtaking
them at 1 p.m. I learned from Dr. Beckler that Patten had been
incessantly moaning since leaving the camp, and begging that we
might stop. This request, with no prospect of water before
reaching Torowotto, except that we had sent on, was not to be
listened to however much to be regretted ; and after attempting
to console the poor fellow as far as possible, I gave orders to
Dr. Beckler not to allow any delays under any circumstances
whatever. Soon after Patten became delirious insisting that we
had brought him on to kill him, and begging to be allowed to die
where he then was. Under these painful circumstances, the party
proceeded till a quarter to six, when I reached the spot where
Mr. Brahé had deposited the water. I was alarmed to find
that a great portion of the water had leaked out and issued one
bucket to each horse and camel. We had very little rest
throughout the night, as the horses kept hanging about the water,
and at twenty minutes to twelve I ordered the camels to be
loosed, in order to give them every chance of feeding. Heavy rain
clouds hung over us for many hours, and a few drops disappointed
our hopes of a greater fall.
Tuesday 4th June.
Karriapundi.
At a quarter to eight started, and,
travelling without stoppage till sunset, reached a spot twelve
miles north of Rat Point, finding there to our great surprise a
fine pool of water. Half a mile previously to reaching it,
Burra, one of the sick camels, fell down, and, evidently being
unable to travel, was left behind. Patten travelled in nearly an
insensible condition all day. The weather was bitterly cold, and
a, tent was pitched at night immediately we arrived at camp for
his accommodation. The feed was very luxuriant, and the camels
were allowed to remain loose all night.
Wednesday, 5th June. Rat
Point.
The unexpected meeting with water induced me
to delay a little this morning for the purpose of giving, all
those desirous of doing so the opportunity, of a good wash, and
it was twenty minutes to eleven before a start was effected.
While saddling, an unusual number of native dogs were noticed
hunting round the water, and regarding the camels with great
curiosity. My intention on leaving camp was to camp at Rat Point,
as I confidently expected to find water in the hole I had
previously discovered when leaving Torowotto On arriving at the
spot, however, so circumscribed was the area covered by the late
rainfall, I found no traces of water, and camped five miles
nearer Torowotto. Patten was all day insensible, and unconscious
of any change in his position.
Thursday, 6th June. Mud
Plains.
At 4 a.m. it was found that Patten had died
during the night, and Mr. Brahé and myself dug a grave for
him by firelight. As soon as his funeral could be performed, the
party started for the hole dug by Dr. Beckler and Mr. Hodgkinson
during their stay at Rat Point, and reached it at one o'clock,
finding abundance of water in the vicinity.
Friday, 7th June.
Torowotto.
A great improvement was discernible in the
health of the men. Smith, Belooch and McDonough, the former
especially, were able to work a little, and Botan was the only
man in very bad health. At an hour before sunset the horses
reached Torowotto, but not a drop of water could be found in any
part of the swamp. This was a great disappointment, as I had
certainly calculated on finding a supply and was unwilling to
send the camels backward and forward as water carriers. There was
a strong probability of rain from the appearance of the sky, and
during the evening and night sufficient fell to afford us a
tolerably good stock of water.
Saturday, 8th June.
Torowotto.
Spelled at Torowotto. Put up two tents for
protection against the rain, which fell intermittently throughout
the day.
Sunday, 9th June.
Torowotto.
Spelled at Torowotto. Packed up for a
start. Intermittent showers throughout the day.
Monday, 10th June. Paldromatta
Creek.
Started at twenty-five minutes past 9 a.m.
Camped at Paldromatta at a quarter to 8 p.m. No water in the
Creek, but passed a little on the road.
Tuesday, 11th June.
Wannaminta.
Started at fifteen minutes past 8 a.m. ;
travelled sixteen miles, and camped at a claypan near the creek
which was erroneously named Yeltawinge in the first part of the
diary.
Wednesday 12th June. Wannaminta.
Started at 2 p.m. with the camels, as they strayed
during the night. Met some [natives] who had accompanied Mr. Burke to
Torowotto, and accepted their services as guides to a shallow
rocky waterhole, eight miles from our last camp.
Thursday, 13th June.
Tirltawinge.
Started at a quarter to ten, and
reached water in Tirltawinge Creek, formerly marked on the diary
as Wannaminta, at 4 p.m. Tracks of kangaroo abundant, whence the
name of the creek, Tirlta, signifying kangaroo. Not expecting
water at the next creek (Nuntherunge), I had a couple of bags
filled for a supply. The natives remained near us, and were very
solicitous to assist us.
Friday, 14th June.
Nuntherunge.
On leaving Tirltawinge I made several
presents to our black friends, and took one of them, a youth of
some fifteen years of age, on with the party. We reached
Nuntherunge at an early hour in the afternoon, and found the bed
of the creek quite dry, but by sinking a couple of feet obtained
sufficient water for camels, horses, and bathing purposes.
Splendid feed on the creek.
Saturday, 15th June, to Friday, 21st
June. Nuntherunge.
After camping at Nantabulla or
Hobson's Basin, and Wotwinge - two gorges amply supplied with
water, in the Motanie Ranges - I proceeded to Badurga ; and
finding no water there, and only sufficient for the camels at
Bilpa, pushed on with the horses to Coorkerega, from whence,
after remaining two days, I reached the Darling on the 18th
instant. The camels arrived on the following day, experiencing
heavy rain-storms at Bilpa and between Coorkerega and the river.
I established the depôt camp in its former situation at the
junction of Pamamoroo Creek with the Darling. I had the honor, on
the Friday following, to despatch Mr. Brahé with a summary
of this diary, and Mr Burke's despatches, addressed to the
Committee, and I trust that the celerity with which I forward the
messenger will be sufficient excuse for its imperfect compilation
and clerical deficiencies.
W Wright, Officer in Charge.
Burke & Wills Web
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