The following section was published in the Argus, June 6 1862, page7.........
Tuesday, 14 January
Went 25 deg. S of E one and a quarter miles, 20 deg. E of S 2 miles, E 1 mile. 30 deg S of E 1 mile, SE 4 miles, 15 deg E of S 3 mile, 12deg W of S 3 miles, 40deg W of S half a mile, 15 deg E of S 1 mile, (the last three and a half miles down a creek), and then turned 60 deg W of S to the river, which was only half a mile on our right. Mr Houghton, Mr Moore, Rodney, and Jemmy Cargara, had gone on the left bank looking for horses, still, however, in vain, They joined us after we had camped at a deep hole in the river, which is here a sandy dry river in two branches, with water at long intervals. Marked a tree;
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Jingle to-day saw Burke's downward trail. The spinifex I had seen south of the 50 tree is only a spur coming into the river. I was astonished to find the country so good, being on both sides splendid plains.
Wednesday, 15 January
Had a very bad start, and as the day was oppressively hot, I only went a short distance, 30 deg S of E, half mile, S one and a half mile. Now, to my annoyance, 40 deg W of S one mile, and then two miles 35 deg E of S, brought us to a good pool of water, where we camped. We had barely got everything snug when a thunderstorm from the NW, which had been threatening all day, came down with tropical violence, making the waterhole flow over, and the river run enough to fill another large reach below us. The rain caused me to omit marking the tree. I here pointed out to Mr Moore that there were specimens of black basalt quartz and slate, besides the greystone mentioned before.
Thursday, 16 January
Coreen Jemmy luckily shot a turkey. Everything that spares our meat is valuable The river to-day has trended more E; had it not done so, I must have abandoned it. 30 deg S of E half a mile, S half a mile, SE one mile, 10 deg S of E half a mile, 30 deg E of S two miles, E half mile, 30 deg S of E half a mile, 43 deg S of E to camp. Marked a tree;
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Here we had just got the tents pitched in time, when down came another thunderstorm, this one from the SSE. The country still beautiful. Water doubtful.
Friday, 17 January
This morning Coreen Jimmy, having mistaken the trees of a creek for these of the river, I was led too far to the east, and had to turn south to hit the river again. The ground from the rain has become very heavy, and the horses were greatly distressed. As it is necessary that at the start I should not impair the fine condition they are in, I made only a short journey, camping ten miles above the 4 tree, in a direction 30 deg E of S by compass. The plains to-day have been flooded from the river, which in consequence has now but a small channel, and this also accounts for our seeing nothing of Burke's downward trail. Blacks' tracks quite fresh were seen at camp No 5. A net and a bundle were found, and in the latter a small plait of fine auburn hair, certainly not that of a black. Rain at night. Mosquitoes kept every one awake all night.
Saturday, 18 January
Just after daylight the blacks were seen close to our camp. As they had some children with them, it was evident their intentions were friendly. A parley ensued. We showed them the picture of a camel, and tried without effect to discover where such animals, if they had seen them, had gone. I doubt whether they understood the meaning of the picture.
The Flinders they explained readily enough carne from ESE. They pointed direct for Grateful Creek. It is as well to mention here that this young block was trying to make us understand some-thing relative to the four white men we inquired about, but was stopped by the sinister-looking men, much to the indignation of Jingle, Paddy, Coreen Jimmy, Rodney, and Jemmy Cargara. Thermometer at three p.m., 102; aneroid, 29.63. One of them brought to my camel-boy a seed necklace; and I gave them in return a couple of Dover knives. Mr Moore and Mr Houghton gave them also a couple of shirts. The young men were good-looking lads, and the boys also of a pleasing appearance. The men, with the exception of a good-humoured ugly old fellow, kept aloof, and some of them had very sinister looking countenances. My course to-day was 25 deg E of S three and a half miles, 30 deg E of S half a mile, SE one mile, 20 deg S of E one mile, and 35 deg E of S two miles, to a fine water hole. where we camped. The plains still flooded; the river on two occasions so insignificant that I doubted whether we had not left it, but immediately above were, on both occasions, pools of water, rather low now, but with evidently last year's water in them. Above our camp No 6 are several fine pools of water; one certainly, if not more, permanent.
Sunday, 19 January
Went SE two miles, 25 deg E of S two miles, 5 deg E of S two miles; we now had to turn 35 deg W of S, as the river was a long way on our left, and 42 deg W of S, which brought us in three miles to a lagoon in an ana branch of great size, but now dry; 25 deg W of S brought us in another mile to the river, and by following it SE one mile we came to camp at a good waterhole, evidently permanent. The strange course to-day has been owing to Coreen Jemmy having led, as I remained behind with Mr Moore, Patrick, and Jingle, being delayed by four horses not being found. The country is still flooded plains, but now quite destitute of vegetation, as it has been burnt, leaving only the stumps of long water-grasses, and a long drought has evidently been experienced here. The river where we first hit it was an insignificant channel, but at our camp was again a broad river. The mosquitoes are to-night reasonable. Thermometer at four pm, 91; aneroid, 29-60.
Monday, 20 January
Went 15 deg E of S two miles and a half, and 25 degrees E of S one mile and a half, when a dark cloud coming from the NW caused us to pitch our tents in all haste. I regretted having done so subsequently, for a NW squall ought not to have stopped us, and it now cleared off, leaving a fine day. Above this camp is a long reach, three miles in length, and of great width; at it were some gins and children. One of them spoke a language a little of which Jemmy Cargara understood. She asked if we were the party that had gone down the Norman. Having been informed that we were, she said that nearly all the blacks had gone over to meet us, as we had said we would return that way. She said Burke had gone down the plains on the left bank, and repeatedly answered he had never returned that way. Aneroid, at day-break, 29.01 ; at half-past six, 29.70. Thermometer, half-past six, 81, A shirt that was in the camp, she said, had been received from the blacks down the river, her own men were up the river fishing. Mosquitoes again manageable. Ana branch seen a long way on our left.
Tuesday, 21 January
We had barely got half the horses saddled, when the rain came down from the NE. I still persisted in pushing on, for we must not be caught by a flood in a country like this, where we might find ourselves out off from the sandstone country by large ana branches. We went S half E one mile, then 20 deg S of E one mile. We now crossed the ana branch, and went on 40 deg E of S two miles, having had the long reach nearly all the way in view. We passed by the blacks' camp, but they had left it. 20 deg E of S one mile, then SE four miles, the river now running in two or three narrow channels. Here we camped, and the horses had had enough of the boggy ground. The men and boys of the gins below are camped at some large pools above this camp; they were friendly, and gave us some fish, but nothing new as to intelligence was gained from them. Heavy storm of tropical rain from SW at night.
Wednesday, 22 January
As the blacks here had confirmed the story told by the gins, of Burke having gone down the left bank, and that he had not returned by the Flinders; and as this was evidently what the blacks at camp No. 5 had tried to make us comprehend, I saw no use in following up the river. Moreover, the continued heavy rains had made the plains very boggy, and I was apprehensive that the wet season had set in three weeks earlier than usual. I therefore determined upon striking across the country for the Norman; a course 25 deg N of E by compass, ought to take us in three weeks to a spot six miles below my 41st tree. We started at two pm, and, after dreadful work for the horses across the plains, and passing over two ana branches, we reached the sandstone country, which the blacks here call 'Mangolas,' in six miles and a half. We camped half-a-mile further, near a good-sized creek, which no doubt joins the ana branch with the big lagoon. The night was fine until an hour before daylight, when a NW storm of rain burst over us, again deluging the country.
Thursday, 23 January
The state of the ground prevented us starting until half-past two, but we found the ground better than we expected after the first two miles, the country was more undulating, and the further east we went the less were the symptoms of rain having fallen; at last I began to fear we would have no water for our camp. This would have been the more awkward, for the heavy rains had caused us not to fill any of our water-bags. Luckily, at the end of twelve miles we found sufficient in a small swamp for our purpose, and we camped. At the end of the first six and a-half miles, we fell in with five blacks, but there were tracks of many more. From them we got the old story about the four white men having gone down the Flinders, but, as usual, no information as to whether they had gone from there. At this camp, at half-past one pm, another tropical storm visited us, lasting until near daylight. It came first from the SSW, went round by the NE, and returned to us with a second edition from the SSE.
Friday, 24 January
This morning heavy rain caused us to delay starting until one pm. In the interval we were visited by nine blacks, out of whom no intelligence could be got. Two of them received a shirt each, but subsequently one of them was detected stealing an American tomahawk. We have given so many away, and so many have been lost, that tomahawks are now with us precious articles. Rodney, whose tomahawk it was, called to the fellow to drop it, and snapped his gun in the air. They all now made off; but Paddy, willing to hasten their movements, fired his breech-loader over their heads. This I was very angry at, as it was done without my orders; nevertheless, it had the good effect of showing them what they, I surmise, were utterly ignorant of the immense range or Terry's carbines. I heard them scream when the conical ball struck a tree some distance ahead of them. We reached the Norman in eleven miles. We did not find the ground at all heavy; in fact, the very heavy [sand?] which caused us so much vexation on our outward route, were in the wet season very acceptable to us, as we had good travelling ground.
Saturday, 25 January
As my horse and another were late coming into camp, I started Mr M'Allister on at half-past eight; for, as we had had a fine clear night, and the morning was splendid, it was necessary to take advantage of it. At nine I started after him; passed the 41 tree in six miles, and overtook Mr M'Allister in five more, at some pools of water with ducks on them, and, as we were out of meat, we camped in hopes of getting some. We found here that the bag containing the tobacco had opened, losing one half (all one side). Three men must, in consequence, return to-morrow, as this is a loss of too serious a nature for Australian bushmen.
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